Replies

1. 
   Ricky_Yu | Feb 18, 2003 12:54pm | #1

   The short answer is that the throat should be set small enough so that just the shaving will pass through but not too small because you will get clogging. The reason is that you get better control and quality of cut when taking a light shaving with the throat adjusted so. For a deeper cut, the adjustable throat allows you to increase the opening for ejecting larger chips. Try this exercise: set the plane for a very light cut. Take some cuts with the throat setting described as above. Then open up the throat and take some cuts that way. See if you can determine any difference.

2. 
   BG | Feb 18, 2003 01:27pm | #2

   MarkH,

   Welcome to the wonderful world of planes...there is lots to know and several good books and articles out there to help.  As you get acquainted with your planes you'll want the printed matter near by to reference and throughly understand.  Once that is achieved...you'll want to buy a hundred planes...just cause, they can be addictive...lol.

    Conceptually, all the adjustments regulate the amount of wood that is removed with each pass. A block plane is primarily designed for end grain, which is very hard to cut and fine shavings are required. However, before you can really experience a different result from a modification of adjustments the tool needs to be prepared.

   When I bought my Stanley Block plane I spent about 2-3 hours sharpening.  They are not ready out of the box except for maybe very rough work.  All those tool marks you see on the bevel of the blade needs to be removed and replaced with a highly polished surface.  The reverse side needs the same attention and dead flat.

   Again, there are several books and articles on sharpening.  Also, many threads on here that can help. Perhaps the least expensive way to get started in sharpening is with sandpaper ..starting with a 150 grit and going up to maybe 2000 grit or higher.  Automotive supply carries the finer grits.

   It is a lot of fun learning, preparing and using planes.

3. 
   alanplanesaw | Feb 19, 2003 01:22am | #3

   I have learned to enjoy hand planes.  They are cordless and don't require batteries.  On many occasions, you can have whatever you need trimmed long before you can get out your router, put in a bit, get it adjusted, and do the job.

   First piece of information.  Planes, like chisels, do NOT come ready to use.  With maybe the exception of a Lie-Nielsen plane. 

   They have to be sharpened and honed first.  With the right tools, it shouldn't take long the first time, and then only minutes to keep it honed in the future.

   Someone said you need to buy about 100 planes.  He may have been joking, but, WOW, do you learn a lot about planes.  I have about that many from flea markets, garage sales, auctions, etc.  

   Get a couple good books.  Get the sharpening video from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com I think is the website)  and get prepared to get addicted. 

   Get a good slow grinder if you are working on old used planes.  1750 rpm or slower, to get a good square edge to start.  Get the Veritas stone pond, some water stones (800, 1200, 4000 or 6000), the Veritas honing guide and angle jig, etc.

   Instead of water stones you can get some 3M Imperial Microfinishing Film (15, 30, 40 & 60 micron) from Highland Hardware in Atlanta.  Then go to a glass shop and get a scrap piece of glass 3/8 inch or thicker, at least 8 1/2 x 11.  You still use the honing guide and angle jig.

   The video I referred to shows you how.

   Have fun!

   Planesaw

4. 
   alanplanesaw | Feb 19, 2003 01:28am | #4

   Mark,

   I also meant to mention that one video I saw of a craftsman not far from where I live showed that he sharpened and set his planes so that the shavings were so thin you could lay them over newspaper and read right through them.  Actually, it is a good indication that you have your plane sharpened and honed properly.

   Planesaw

5. 
   davearnone | Feb 19, 2003 01:51am | #5

   M, Ok the more i write the less sure i am so I trust someone will correct my sloppy cutting mechanics. 

   it's perhaps more useful to think of the opening as an edge rather than a hole. 

   The leading edge of the throat (underneath the plane) provides downward pressure on the work and reduces the distance of the shear point of the chip from the cutting edge.

   Think about what's actually happening near the cutting edge after the intiial formation of the chip.  Once you have a good chip formed that has not yet broken from the work, the chip is likely bearing on the bevel of the plane iron and not on the edge itself.  The sharp edge sits untouched in the angle made between the bottom of the chip and the resultant cut surface.  The shear point is at the vertex of the angle, ahead of the cutting edge.

   Consider what happens with a tight throat: the closer that shear point gets to the cutting edge, the more control you have on the cut.  The location of the shear point determines the effective shear angle of the cut.  The tigther the throat, the steeper the angle and the more the plane is scraping rather than cutting.  With a tighter throat the chip is less likely to run away from you. 

   Now for a big throat, the shear point is farther away and the shear angle is shallower.  This provides a more efficient cut.  Pushing forces should be less.  But as the shear point moves away, you lose control over where the chip breaks.  The shear point is more likely to wander.  You'll see this as tear-out. 

   With the throat adjustment you are trading off pushing force with control of the chip formation. 

   Sorry for the confusing explanation.  I trust others will help me make this more clear and correct.  dave