Replies

1. 
   Westchester | May 14, 2012 07:05pm | #1

   Hobbyist

   We all learn as we go and we're all still learning.  A hand made dovetailed case is fine for a one of a kind project.  Great learning experience.  The dovetail jigs are expensive - they do a beautiful job - but the set up time can be challenging.  Start with hand work before you start buying jigs.   A decent fence - parallel is necessary.  A sliding miter and you'll have everything you need and more to get started.  One of my favorite books to learn technques was by Tage Frid - the rest will come from experience.

2. 
   roc | May 14, 2012 09:21pm | #2

    "A"

   19 inch dovetail.

   You mean one dovetail 19 inches on a side right ?  Like for building a gigantic temple or some thing right ?

   Ha, ha.

   OK . . . being serious now . . . don't under estimate simple hand tools and some skill and practice.

   You can't beat this book.  ( he teaches you hand and machine tools ).

   http://www.amazon.com/Nick-englers-woodworking-wisdom-Engler/dp/0762101792/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1337043802&sr=1-1

3. 
   RalphBarker | May 15, 2012 10:39am | #3

   Dovetails and Table Saws

   I was going to ask you about that single, 19" wide dovetail, but Roc beat me to it.  ;-)

   As mentioned, doing dovetail joints by hand is an excellent learning experience. The process will teach you a lot about measuring, marking, saw and chisel technique, etc. Start with a single joint joining two boards, then move on to joining four boards into a box - one that sits flat on the bench. Along the way, explore the different types of dovetail saws, the different types of chisels, single-bevel marking knives versus pencils, and how to sharpen.

   The myriad dovetail jigs on the market are aimed at people who want to make lots of joints quickly and consistently using a router. (Consider, for example, a project with a dozen or more dovetailed drawers.)  As you've probably noticed, they come in two basic types - fixed and adjustable. Fixed-spacing jigs are relatively easy to set up, but infer that the widths of your boards (precisely) conform to the geometry and spacing increment of the jig. Adjustable-spacing jigs offer more versatility, but with a corresponding increase in set-up time. I like the Porter Cable 4200-series for fixed spacing applications, and the PC Omnijig for variable spacing. But, the Omnijig is big, heavy, and begs for a permanent stovetailing station. Try to avoid cheap jigs that require the jig to be moved along the board, since that introduces human error that gets multiplied as you move around the box mentioned above.

   Somewhere in the middle of this adventure, you'll perhaps bump into the concept of a "shooting board" and the use of an appropriate hand plane to trim the ends of boards perfectly square, and to trim corresponding boards to precisely the same length.

   Assuming your contractor saw was complete with the original fence and sliding miter gauge, your most useful initial accessory might be a dial test indicator for use in tuning the saw. Combined with a jig that fits into the miter slots, the dial indicator will allow you to tune the saw with precision, and that precision translates directly into safe operation and better cuts. There are past articles in FWW that explain the basics of table saw tuning. Or, consider John White's book on shop tool maintenance:

   http://www.amazon.com/Care-Repair-Shop-Machines-Troubleshooting/dp/156158424X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1337091764&sr=1-1

   I'd work with the original rip fence on your saw a bit to determine if it stays in adjustment. If it doesn't, consider upgrading. For a miter gauge upgrade, consider the Osborne:

   http://www.amazon.com/Osborne-Table-Saw-Miter-Gauge/dp/B0032YZACY/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1337092535&sr=1-2

   Another great table saw accessory is a large (12" or larger), plastic drafting triangle. They are very inexpensive compared to machinist squares, and are surprisingly precise.