Replies

1. 
   Segil | Sep 13, 2005 10:34pm | #1

   Woodsplicer,

        The dark patches on the cherry could easily have sand grit imbedded, this would nick your iron.  There also might be something in the manufacturing process which leaves the tip of a factory new blade a bit brittle.  If this be the case, others will have had the same experience.  Hone down past the nicks, and see if it is tougher.

         "Nicks on my plane blade".  ..............Isn't that a Bob Dylan album?

          - Silly me, That was "Blood on the tracks".

1. 
   philip | Sep 14, 2005 11:19am | #3

   Segil, am I right in believing that Bob Dylan recently floated away?Philip Marcou

2. 
   hammer1 | Sep 14, 2005 04:29am | #2

   I think I'd get out the magnifying glass and magnet just to be sure you don't have an old fence staple or something in the board. I'm guessing you know, that you should always lay the plane on it's side and not set it down on the blade when you are not using it. Better blades are also harder, therefore, they can nick a little easier. You have to be careful not to let them touch anything but the wood you are going to plane. I don't even drag the plane backwards while working. Once it's nicked, you have to sharpen it.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   woodsplicer | Sep 14, 2005 04:04pm | #4

   Thank you Hammer1 and to you Seqil for your insights.
   I will get back to both of you on what I can find with my magnifying glass and magnet. But alas, I can only be at my workshop this weekend!
   How I wish my workshop is not 20 miles away from my home.Woodsplicer.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 14, 2005 08:39pm | #5

   When a tree grows up it takes in all sorts of stuff that is 'inside'..

   Just like us Humans with all out faults.. Never know what to expect..

   Not the planes fault!

1. 
   papanick | Sep 15, 2005 01:19am | #6

   I am not....The older I get, the better I was....

4. 
   Quartersawn | Sep 15, 2005 03:08am | #7

   Those dark spots in cherry are usually pitch pockets.  Did you do any sanding on this board before the planeing?  You dont ever want to sand anywhere on or around a board that is going to be planed.  I think the point about the initial edge being brittle is probably valid, too.  The L-N people are big belivers in a 5 degree secondary bevel.  I got that straight from the horse's mouth while visiting there this summer.

   By the way, the Veritas Mk.II sharpening jig is fantastic.  They need to make one small change though.  The threaded steel studs that hold the blade in place should be stainless.  Mine are getting rusty from use of the jig to sharpen irons on waterstones.

1. 
   gbalcom | Sep 16, 2005 01:16am | #8

   I believe if you tell Lee valley about this they will probably replace your current one, as well as make such an improvement to their product.  they are very receptive to feedback on their products.  Great company!

1. 
   woodsplicer | Sep 16, 2005 03:28pm | #9

   Could not wait till week end. Made a quick trip to the workshop.
   Armed with my magnifying glass I examined that cherry board. I have now found that there are a few pin knots on the board.
   I believe those pin knots caused the nicks on my new 5 1/2 Lie-Nielsen plane blade ( iron)
   I then used my old friend, No.5 Clifton plane,to plane that same piece of cherry.The blade survived with no nicks. The blade is of high carbon steel honed to 33 degrees with a micro bevel of 35 degrees - as recommended by David Charlesworth.
   I conclude that there is indeed some truth that the front edge of a new Lie-Nielsen blade is very brittle due to the manufacturing process.
   The dark patches or pitch pockets on the board have no sand grits embedded in them. There are some loose powdery substance embedded but I do not believe they are harmful to the blade.
   I will resharpen the new Lie-Nielsen blade pass the nicks to see whether the metal behind the factory ground edge is less brittle.Thank you all for your contributions and pointing me to the right direction.Woodsplicer.