Replies

1. 
   seb | Jun 23, 2006 04:28am | #1

   M L Campbell cat laq...easy to use and very tough stuff...Nitro laq belongs on your '55 xk150...
   Bud

1. 
   woodgeek | Jun 23, 2006 04:37am | #2

   Thx for the suggestion!  I've used Kelly Moore Nitro for years but they changed the formulation sometime ago and I've used up all my stock of the old stuff.  Need to make a change but am a little reticent to move without some knowledge of the pros and cons of CAB.

2. 
   frenchy | Jun 23, 2006 07:45pm | #7

   seb,

     Ummm,  Jaguar didn't make the XK150 until late in 1957 prior to that it was the XK140

     All XK150's were called 1958's   XK150's were built from 1958 to 1961 with the advent of the XKE.    Most E types were also painted with  nitro  lacquers.    Late series 2 and all series three were acrylic Lacquers

    

     

1. 
   jackplane | Jun 23, 2006 07:57pm | #8

   All true, but frenchy you still drive a Dodge Dart... 

1. 
   frenchy | Jun 23, 2006 10:50pm | #10

   jackplane, 

         Thems fighten words boy!  I am a proud (but foolish owner of four British sports cars...  A "D" type Jaguar an XK-E V12 roadster (racecar)  a 1953 MGTD and a MGuar.

     (it's a hotrod with a 1950 MG body and a V12 Jaguar engine and suspension.. The wheels are extremely rare in that they are pin drive knock offs from the Chapparel Mk 1  (project not yet finished) 

        MY daily driver is a 1997 4x4 chevy K1500 (with 260,000 miles on it my wifes car is my reject (a 2002 GMC Envoy) and my daughters car is a Saturn Ion.    OH, I do have a 1930 Ford Model A pickup to restore  but nary a Dodge in the bunch!

     

    

     

2. 
   seb | Jun 23, 2006 08:30pm | #9

   Ahh yes, hoisted on my own pitard...LOL...
   I gave up thinking about Jags and other English cars after I sold my TR2...Fine car, got about 2500 miles per engine...And as a woodworker you would appreciate it as the frame under the sheet metal was wood...Fun to drive however...
   Bud

1. 
   frenchy | Jun 23, 2006 10:51pm | #11

   seb

     MG's and Morgans use ash frame work and mold the steel for the body over it..   Sorta a real woodie <G>

1. 
   Patto | Jun 29, 2006 07:23am | #20

   MG used the wood frame until the end of the TF. The A was the first monococque body and the last real sports car built (real sports cars don't have wind up windows)

   My first serious 3d wood project was a new frame for my 1954 MGTF. I would like to do another having thought about economic production for a few years. Mostly they had noe flat face (often fastened to the chasis) and then the rest of the joinery worked around that. When I did it I cut the shape (including curves) first and then tried to fit good joinery. This was not clever.

   Still, it was a really great project ad very satisfying to complete.

   Dave

   PS, car was later converted into the deposit on a house - 15 years later I am finally looking at getting another sports car.

2. 
   frenchy | Jun 30, 2006 05:18am | #21

   Patto,

     You should be pleased to know that MG prices have remained flat or actually softened in the last 15 years..  While flawless MGTC's can command prices in excess of $25,000 Driver TD's sell between 8 and 15 thousand and TF's are the same price except for the 1500 with wire wheels which may command prices into the 20's 

     TSO is still an excellant source for cars. I'd avoid the E Bay cars because the value of a car simple cannot be determined with pictures.

     Frankly I would go for a survivor car over a restoration,  There is something wonderfull about the patina in an original car that can never be replaced.  The mechanicals can all be easily rebuilt and even updated a bit without losing any real value.    However once a flawless paint job is impossed upon a MG even if the correct color and type of paint is used.

         While it is certainly tempting to  replaced worn chrome work with Moss Motors brightwork any enthusiast can spot at a glance the differances..

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 23, 2006 04:44am | #3

   Get the Material Safety Data Sheet for the CAB.  Be sure you comply with the safety concerns.

   Howie.........
1. 
   woodgeek | Jun 23, 2006 04:54am | #4

   Howie,

   Thx for the suggestion.  Anything in particular you are alluding too...i.e. more flammable...more toxic...than nitro?

   Joe

3. 
   mapleman | Jun 23, 2006 06:46am | #5

   w/g,

   Not sure if you are interested in Sherwin Williams products, but they have a CAB acrylic as well as catalyzed varnish. You can print out a spec sheet on each as well as a MSDS sheet from their web site. I recently quit my job in the printing field to build kitchen cabinets full time. I was planning to use CAB for the finishing, but there were a lot of cautions about using aluminum or brass ( it seems the acids kind of melt the aluminum or brass parts of your spray gun, then they bleed into your clear) so everything must be plastic or stainless steel to spray CAB. That may be different with other brands, I'm not sure. I ultimately opted to go with the water white conversion varnish and let me tell you, this stuff sprays and lays down like a million bucks. It has about 40% solids, 2 coats will be all you need for sure. And it seems to be the toughest product available to the general public for cabinets. Both products have 4 or 5 different sheens available, from high gloss to dead flat. I think the CAB is about 26% solids. Both products are water clear, so they will be fine over a painted finish, but I haven't done this as of yet, only used them over stain so far. Also, be aware the both products must be catalyzed before use, with the appropriate catalyst, also available from Sher Williams. I'm definitely not an expert, but I did quite a bit of research before I bought the first can of clear. Hope this helps.

   Lee

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 23, 2006 06:22pm | #6

   Mapleman,

   I've found the Sherwyn Williams CAB Acrylic to handle exactly like Nitro, (which I probably will never use again). I use it over their 24% solids vinyl sealer which is the companion sealer for the CAB Acrylic. It handles just like Nitro, except that it goes down water white and stays that way. A great characteristic. My gun body is aluminum as is the can. The innards are SS which I guess is pretty typical for just about any gun available. No problem at all with corosion of the aluminum parts.

   Which product specifically do you mean by the conversion varnish? I need to try some of that. What do you clean up with? How is repairing the surface after its cured?

   Rich

1. 
   mapleman | Jun 24, 2006 06:47am | #12

   Hi Rich,

   The Sherwin Williams conversion varnish I use is called Sherwood water white conversion varnish.

   V84V80 High gloss

   V84F81 Bright Rubbed

   V84F82 Medium Rubbed

   V84F83 Dull Rubbed

   V66V21 is the catalyst

   S/W sells a  thinner for this stuff, or You can use toluene, Xylene or high flash naptha. I use xylene for thinning and clean up. I haven't had any exprerience with touch up as of yet, so I can't comment on that. They have a wealth of info on the S/W web site on each product they sell, such as drying time, recommended film thickness, etc.

   Good luck,

   Lee

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 24, 2006 05:25pm | #13

   Thanks,I have to locate a SW dealer here in northern Arizona.

1. 
   Rennie | Jun 28, 2006 03:53pm | #18

   http://www.sherwin-williams.com/store_locator/store.jspRegard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright

2. 
   Rich14 | Jun 28, 2006 05:44pm | #19

   Thanks!

2. 
   woodgeek | Jun 28, 2006 03:29am | #14

   Lee,

   Thx for the info on SW CAB.  Based on your input and info from others I'm going to give the SW CAB a try this week/  Bought a couple of gallons today for some testing on Cherry.  AS to the aluminum issue I contacted SW tech folks and this was their reply.

   Mr. ------Aluminum only becomes a concern if you are using catalyzed or water-based finishes of which CAB Acrylic is neither. You'll be fine. Regards, Steve ClouseTechnical Support ManagerChemical Coatings Divisionphone:866-722-9710    fax: 216-566-2226=============================================================

1. 
   mapleman | Jun 28, 2006 04:45am | #15

   Woodgeek,

   I love it when you get 2 different answers from the same company! This is a direct quote from Sherwin Williams PDF fact sheet:

   Store catalyzed material in stainless, plastic, or lined containers.

   Stainless steel spray equipment must be used.

   Do not subject catalyzed material to iron, brass, or aluminum. Exposure to these will discolor Sher wood Acrylic conversion coating and can affect cure.

   I'm not trying to scare you away from this stuff, just want you to know the facts. Maybe you and I are talking about 2 different products, or maybe the S/W guy you spoke to thought you were inquiring about another product.  The CAB acrylic I'm talking about says to catalyze with S/W catalyst, product # V66V26 (4oz per gallon). It has a 6 month pot life after catalyzation. It also says for optimum UV/non-yellowing properties, apply acrylic conversion coating as a self-seal system. All this info came from their web site.  The product #'s for the fact sheet I'm quoting from are:

   T77C60 Gloss

   T77F61 Bright rubbed

   T77F62 Medium rubbed

   T77F63 Dull rubbed

    

   Lee

    

1. 
   woodgeek | Jun 28, 2006 05:03am | #16

   Lee,

   We are talking about two different products.  My inquiry to SW was about CAB Acrylic Lacquer (B44FJ75) which I believe is a non-catalized product.  This CAB seems to be closer to my needs in ease of application and similarity to the nitro I have used in the past.  Sorry if I misled you...originally thought were talking about the same product....aparently not so.

   Joe

1. 
   mapleman | Jun 28, 2006 06:44am | #17

   W/G,

   Yep, I thought we were barking up 2 different trees. Good luck and let me know how it turns out, I may give it a whirl myself.

   Lee