Hi,
I’m working on a dresser and would like to use NK-style drawers? Anyone have experience with them?
I actually have only one specific question. Here goes: I understand that the bottom and wooden slides are fitted into the drawer opening and then, eventually attached to the drawer “box. The front edge of the bottom fits into a traditional groove in the drawer front. The instructions that I have state that, when you assemble the drawer box and the bottom and slides, you are to glue the finished drawer box to the drawer bottom and wooden slides. This doesn’t seem very sound from a structural perspective. Seems like the drawer bottom would eventually separate from the drawer box.
Am I reading this correctly? Does anyone have a different understanding? I like the concept of the NK drawers but want a sturdy drawer that will last a lifetime. Any advice is appreciated.
lp
Replies
What does NK mean? I've never heard of that abbreviation, and as a consequence, haven't got a clue what you're talking about. Slainte, RJ.
Hi Sgian,
NK drawers were formulated by a swedish company, Nordiska Kompaniet.
I've got two references. One is the new Taunton Press book "Chests of Drawers". Also, in the August, 2001 issue of FWW (#150) there is an article about NK drawers.
In essence, you fit two wooden drawer slides and a drawer bottom into the carcase and then attach the drawer box in such a way that only the drawer slides and the drawer front touch the carcase. The reported end result is:
An easier to fit drawer
Less wear and tear because the drawer sides don't touch the carcase
Thinner drawer sides
Less sticking, binding, etc related to the drawer sides not touching
Any advice and, particularly, experience is appreciated.
lp
I haven't come across the construction Larry. I did a very quick search on the internet to find a reference, but didn't, except reference to a department store in Stocholm. If anyone has a graphic of the pattern, I'd be interested in seeing it. Slainte, RJ.RJFurniture
Sgian,
Some where in the shop there are some scrap NK drawer parts that should have made the trash years ago. I'll see if I can find them and get a photo and see what kind of photo I can get of the kitchen drawers. Basically the NK design has sides that have a proud section at the bottom of the drawer that would eliminate problems with warped drawer sides but mostly offers a wide bearing surface at the bottom of the drawer to limit wear.
I might have to charge batteries for the digital camera before I can get photos up and they're slow charging. I hope slow is okay, 'cuz I'll be slow getting it done if there's loose juice in the batteries. It's kinda busy here at the minute.
Thanks. I'm definitely going to build the drawers using this style of drawer slide..just makes sense.
I'd love to see the pictures..and hear from ANYONE who has ever used this method of drawer construction.
lp
I too am dead keen to get into these slides, they make heaps of sense, easier to fit without losing the traditional appeal. Where my workshop is we have an old desk C1920 with something like this. The sides of the draw look like they were cut away after dovetailing rather than the NK tecnique. BTW they still work very well.
A relatively recent FWW had an article about "Cabineture" which detailed these drawers, somehow it has dissapeared so I can't tell you which one it was.
If someone finds it could they let us know the issue number. I also have a bit of info in FWW's "Boxes, Carcasses and Drawers", but its not very detailed as far as actually making them is concerned.
Phil
The article profiling "cabineture", entitled "Extraordinary Built-ins", can be found in Fine Woodworking No. 149 (June 2001), pp.54-59.
Larry,
After my first experience with NK drawers, I modified the design so the sides were cut from a thicker piece of wood and made from a single piece of 6/4 stock. It's not the most efficient use of material or time but I like the results better.
I've had this modified NK glide drawers in my home kitchen for over 20 years. With hard maple drawer sides and runners there's been no perceptible wear even on an over-loaded silver ware drawer that's probably opened and closed 15 times a day. Metal commercial glides wouldn't have survived this long and I'm sure the drawers are good for another 100 years minimum.
How did you attach the drawer sides to the drawer bottom? Glue? Doesn't seem very structuarally strong to me....
Any advice would be appreciated.
lp
I cut rabbets on the bottoms and set them in dados so that they come out flush with the wider portion of the drawer side. This eliminates a height difference between the side and the bottom inside the drawer. The only glue involved is on the dovetails which I do glue.
FWW #150 has an article about NK-style drawer slides. I remember reading it, but don't remember any details.
Brian
"If you keep doing what you've been doing, you'll keep getting what you've been getting." - Unknown
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