Replies

1. 
   Samson | Jan 09, 2007 12:07am | #1

   I did not know Stanley was still making the 78.  Perhaps you meant recent versions of the 78 type, like the Anant?  If so, I'd recommend pusuing a vintage one based on the following reasoning:

   - the Anant sells for like $70 - while I have no personal expereince with Anant planes, I've heard enough wwr's express significant "reservations" about them that I'd be very leary (I do have one of their Record clone bench vices and am completely satisfied with it)

   - for $70 OR LESS you should be able to find a COMPLETE (this is important - it should have the fence, rod, blade, nicker etc.) vintage 78 (try to get pre-1950's if possible) in excellent condition (maybe just a bit of lost japanning) from ebay or a reputable old tool dealer

   - I have a 1930's vintage 78 (sweetheart era with the SW "Stanley Works" logo in a heart) and it is very nice in a ll respects and easy to use.

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 09, 2007 07:28am | #2

   Dan, I have the Anant #78, #45, #4 and the big record vise copy. The vise is good, the #4 with a new iron is very serviceable(almost as good as an old Record etc.) but the other two are trash . I am sure that some day the heavenly light will beam on to their plant and they will(have to) improve. Until that happens you would be better off getting sea sick and lockjaw at the same time than buy these planes.

   An ebay 78 or even better, the record #778 with two rods for the fence that work left or right and a fine screw adjuster for a positive iron control would be best. Rumor has it that Lee Valley has a #289? skewed iron version comming out soon and I would bet that it will be a winner. I would wait for that if you have the slack. All the best Paddy.

3. 
   pzgren | Jan 09, 2007 11:38pm | #3

   Gopher,

     IMO/IME the currently manufactured Stanleys are not very good quality planes.

     If you need a #78, you might look for an old Stanley (pre-WWII) or Record.

     I'll go out on a limb here: Another alternative is the Anant copy of the Record version of the #78. This (Anant) plane has three things to recommend it: 1) It is readily available, 2) it's relatively cheap (around $70), and, most importantly, 3) it is a copy of the Record version (two post fence).

     I own one of these Anant #78 copies. It's not a particularly good plane, but it's not a particularly bad plane, either. The casting is good enough, and flattening the sole is easy because there is so little of it to flatten. Same thing applies to the iron beds ("frogs" if you will....). A little file work cleans up the mouths. The adjustment mechanism works well enough -- it's not especially sturdy, so be careful with it. The iron holds an edge long enough to do small jobs, but don't expect to use it all day long without some fairly frequent honing; it's probably worth (eventually) replacing or re-doing the heat treatment yourself. One thing that is a real irritant is the cheap plastic front knob -- there is simply no excuse for such a half-a$$ed, PoS knob. Nonetheless, after tuning, it's quite usable. It will never approach the quality to be found in an old Stanley or Record, but appeared to me to be better than the new-manufactured Stanley #78s.

     In all honesty, this (the #78 copy) is the only Anant plane that I can recommend and still be able to sleep at night. I've tuned other Anant (and Groz) planes -- #4, #5, and block planes -- in the past, and found that they were -- to put it bluntly -- junk. The machining tolerances were, shall we say, rather loose, castings of low grade improperly aged grey iron, poor quality heat treatment on the iron (the edge rolled after about 4½ passes on clear pine.....), etc. You get the idea.

     So...best bet would probably be a vintage Record or Stanley (IMO in that order). Somewhere in the next best line would be the Anant copy; just be prepared to do a fair amount of tuning.

   Beste Wünschen auf ein glückliches und wohlbehaltenes Neues Jahr!

   Tschüß!

   Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen aus dem Land der Rio Grande!!

   James

   ---

   Edited 1/9/2007 3:38 pm by pzgren

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/10/2007 1:14 pm by pzgren

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 10, 2007 06:07am | #4

   I have a rough Stanley #78 that I'm in the process of restoring which appears to have all the parts with it.  Any tips on restoring same?  I've flattened the sole and use sandpaper on float glass, as on a limited budget.

   Also restoring an 1892 (I think) #45 and getting the blades tuned is a PITA!  Any thoughts on this as well?

   Thanks,

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   pzgren | Jan 10, 2007 08:53pm | #5

   Bob,

     As necessary:

        Completely disassemble and de-rust/clean off any grime from the entire plane;

        Square up the mouths --  a light touch with the file here is better; just remove the absolute minimum metal necessary to make the mouth square and straight;

        Flatten/lap the sole (this should be relatively quick and easy, as there really is not much of it);

        Check the bedding surfaces for the iron for flatness and correct with a fine cut file/emery stick;

        Check the bearing surface of the fence and flatten/clean up;

        Clean the fence post and associated hardware;

        Clean and hone the nicker;

        Clean and lubricate all fasteners and pivot points;

        Hone the iron: polish the back (non-bevel side) to a mirror polish, ensure that the cutting edge is square to the sides (re-grind as necessary), and run the bevel side up through your finest sharpening stone.

     I prefer sand paper on float glass for lapping plane soles, especially since I can't afford that big of a granite surface plate.....  LOL

     I also have a #45 that I purchased late last year; haven't done any clean up on it yet, so I don't have any real "practical experience" kind of advice that I could pass on to you (at least not yet). Sorry.

     Good luck, and have fun!!

   Beste Wünschen auf ein glückliches und wohlbehaltenes Neues Jahr!

   Tschüß!

   Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen aus dem Land der Rio Grande!!

   James

   Edited 1/11/2007 11:29 am by pzgren

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 11, 2007 03:44am | #6

   Bob, James gave the best hot poop on the #78 and now youse guys(south brooklyn familiar term) are delving into the world of the combiniation plane -I will have prayers said for ya.

   The slippery slope of hand tools probably has in the top ten, infill smoothers , brass bound braces, ivory rules, chisels and carving tools used by the crusaders, etc, AND combination planes.  If you get the fever it is the world of Mayo, Sandusky or Miller and then Stanley45/55, Record405 and Clifton(45). In the last 20 years I have gathered a small herd of the latter.

   To the point I do my irons as follows (others have their ways), Flatten and polish the backs to sharpen and don't touch the bevel unless you have to. When you have to the straight cutters get the same bevel ,NO SECOND 1 OR 2 DEGREE BEVELS, which allows you to back sharpen as touch ups are required. The shaped cutters are truly a PITA and require the lightest touch with slip stones to sharpen then super fine automotive wet/dry paper over the proper size dowel and then felt with compound. You need these cutters to be super sharp to work nicely. The first time that you feel them dragging give them a lick or two to get the edge back.

   Do not super sharpen every cutter that you own only the ones you know that you will use. You will know when you plan the work if you need to sharpen up. If you get afflicted you want to watch out for flea market or ebay offerings of loose cutters to build up spares of the straight or common shapes. The spare straight cutters can be ground to custom shapes as required. When they offer full sets the price is never good. Remember they don't make these any more.

   After I move I will reduce my herd to a nib and a clean user 45 and 55, my 405 with all the hollows and rounds and my Clifton with its' second special set of cutters. All the rest will be properly fetteled, boxes will be  made for them and sold.

   You may ask why so many? I only use them for work for friends and family but one is set up to slot drawer bottom, another to let in the cabinate back, others to do trim moulding or a two step(rarely 3 step) compound moulding edge because it is 200 times worse to set up precisely than a router table cut as every thing is movable. Welcome to the slippery slide. All the best, Paddy