Replies

1. 
   suburbanguy | Feb 19, 2020 06:33am | #1

   Easier than using a straight edge is to put a couple of pieces of masking tape behind the router outfeed fence. This will offset it by a couple of thousandths of an inch. Set the cutter in line with the outfeed fence--like a jointer.

   I don't think you're going to get the results that you're expecting by using a router as a surface planer. Like you, I've only seen it used for initial face milling of a large live edge plank that is too big/heavy for a shop planer. I'd expect a fair bit of manual clean up is necessary after such a technique.--would imagine it is dependant on the rigidity,etc of the setup.

2. 
   DRBWWing | Feb 19, 2020 09:56am | #2

   Edge jointing can be done with a flush trim bit and straight edge. If using a router table, the down face has to be jointed and straight. IMO nothing beats a hand plane for dialing in edges.

   For face jointing, without a jointer/planer and not wanting to hand plane, as far as I know you're really left with few options other than a router sled and hand planes to clean up.

   Planers can be purchased fairly reasonable, sometimes used. My thinking is even the lunchbox type planer is better than nothing.

   For face surfacing, a planer sled can flatten and thickness, but the remaining surface is going to be rough.

   If you don't want to hand plane or buy a planer, then you're really left with sanding. Yuck!

3. 
   suburbanguy | Feb 19, 2020 11:47am | #3

   "Edge jointing can be done with a flush trim bit and straight edge."
   And that perfectly straight edge is going to come from where? Sorry, I'll use my purchased router table fence any day over "some straight thingy", hoping for the best....
   Furthermore, when using a flush trim bit, half the router base will not be supported and can rock, even by a couple thou. Sorry, with my method the weighty router is properly afixed and the wood is fully supported on the table.
   I was trying to be tactful in my initial reply to user-7094555, but your reply forced me to be more direct. Running a router along a straight edge is a lousy method to achieve the perfection necessary for jointing.
   My solution is just an inexpensive adaptation of these separate micro-adjustable infeed/outfeed fences. Freud makes one. Felisatti makes one. There is also a cheaper knock off. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SH-5-Professional-Micro-Adjustable-Router/dp/B00005Q7CN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

4. 
   john_c2 | Feb 19, 2020 12:00pm | #4

   What tools DO you have?

   I do all my edge joining right off the table saw. Eons ago, I used the radial arm saw I started with.

   When a radial saw was the only stationary tool I had, I used a "planer" attachment in a drill chuck on the radial saw, mounted horizontally. I took little nibbled, and cleaned it up with a belt sander. I had miles of church pews I had acquired that I "planed" with that method. They were NOT the good old days.

   Go without food or heat for a couple of weeks. Buy a surface planer. Best 500 bucks I ever spent in my whole life.

5. 
   user-7094555 | Feb 19, 2020 12:30pm | #5

   Thanks John_C2 for the answer. Good recos Suburbanguy and rwe2156.

   I have some basics -- table saw, circ saw, router, hand planes (block, bench) -- at least those are what come to mind for dimensioning.

   I had been in the habit of edge jointing (or at least creating a good straight edge) with the circular saw. For that though, I wind up losing some material. I haven't tried to joint on the table saw -- for that I suppose I'd want to have a nice thin kerf blade??

   For jointing on the table saw, would I need to have some pre-established straight edge? I'm assuming that I'd probably need to have some nice straight edge that is X distance between my rip fence and blade so that I can overhang my material to be ripped down with a straight edge. Is that about right?

   But, you are probably right -- surface planer is probably worth it :). If I wanted to be cheaper about it, I think Wen makes one (13") for about $280.

6. 
   mikaol | Mar 19, 2020 08:53pm | #6

   Edge jointing is simple, what with the grain on both surface running the same way.
   I have to face-plane the longer way since the tabletops I build are constructed with different widths of different woods edge glued. I clamp 2, 3/4" bar clamps across the workbench for a router with a 2" flattening router bit to travel along.
   The router rides on the pipes. And as 3/4" pipes are pretty inflexible, I don't have to worry about gouges and other inconsistencies. But I have the time & rather enjoy the simplicity of the work.
   Good luck,
   Mikaol

7. 
   rob_ss | Mar 20, 2020 03:16am | #7

   Since getting a sliding table saw I use that for most edge jointing now.
   The only problem is that no matter how big the slider, the piece you want to joint always seems to be a little too big...

   You can joint edges on any accurate table saw and no, you don't need a thin kerf blade, just a blade without any wobble.

   All that is required is something to carry your work past the blade so that the finished work is always coplanar with the blade. This can be a piece of board against the fence, or better, running in a slide in the mitre slot - basically a long sled.
   Run your 'slider' through to trim off excess materiel and you have a zero-clearance edge against which to line up your job for jointing. The hard bit is fixing it to the carriage. I am sure you could rig something similar to a Fritz and Franz jig.