Replies

1. 
   woodman300 | Sep 12, 2003 04:56am | #1

   what kind of routing are you doing? If it is just edge work, you may be able to do it flat on your bench with one of those grip pads. They sell them at woodworking stores but I have also seen similar products at target and k-mart. All they are is a sticky pad that kind of grips the bench and the workpiece laid on top of it.

   This may only work if you are taking minimal bites at a time though.

1. 
   Leonardo | Sep 12, 2003 05:06am | #2

   Yes, mostly edgeing.  Most recently I was routng a V groove down middle of a 1"  wide mahogony board I'm making a picture frame out of.

   Thanks, Len

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Sep 12, 2003 05:12am | #3

   Len

      The reason you stated is the exact reason I built my first router table. Even if you could place the stock between thinner stock that is clamped to the table at a distance to not interfere with the router base and guide, you still have to re-clamp for each side done.

      Those friction router pads work great for sanding, but I would not attempt to use one with a bit spinning 21,000 rpm. Something tells me that is not a good way to stay healthy. ha..ha..

      With a table, you just present each side to the fence and run her through without a guide or bearing. What would take 15 or 20 minutes with all the clamping, will take about 1 minute after the set-up is made.

   Good Luck...

   sarge.jt

1. 
   Leonardo | Sep 12, 2003 05:29am | #5

   Sarge,

   I have tried using thiner wood to clamp the workpiece and every other jig I could think of, none of them sutiable.  Maybe it is time to graduate to a router table.  I had't thought of making one until you mentioned it.  I don't know why, I have seen plans for them.  I guess I just wasn't thinking in that direction.  I'm still new at this but you got me thinking I could make one. 

   Thanks, Len

3. 
   UncleDunc | Sep 12, 2003 05:16am | #4

   How about a pair of auxiliary vise jaws made of MDF or plywood. Make them as long as the longest workpiece you need, L shaped in cross section. When the vertical faces of the jaws are clamped in the vise with the workpiece between them, the router can ride on the horizontal faces.

1. 
   Leonardo | Sep 12, 2003 05:43am | #6

   Thats one I haven't tried yet.  I think that would have worked on the last project.  But now I'm thinking I might give that router a home and make a router table.

   Thanks for the reply, Len

4. 
   SparrowHawk | Sep 12, 2003 01:27pm | #7

   Hi Len,

   I don't know if your workbench can use them but traditional holdfasts might do the trick. With them you could rout up to 3 sides before moving the piece, it would be held firmly and easily released plus the fact that they are inexpensive. Food for thought ...

   Be safe,
   Ken

1. 
   Leonardo | Sep 12, 2003 03:21pm | #8

   Hi Ken,

   You're typing pretty good.  Hope the recovery will be complete.

   My bench is just a piece of 3/4 plywood I mounted on a preexisting, heavy base.  The base was left in the house I bought 25 years ago. Originaly used by a sheet metal crftsman, it is good and sturdy.  But it  is covered with all kinds of metal plates and attachments that he used.  They are all covered up now by the plywood, but I would be worried about what I mightg hit if I start drilling holes for bench dogs or holdfasts. 

   When I retired a year and a half ago I started doing some woodworking/carpentry.  At the time I didn't know there was a difference.  I didn't know what a traditional workbench was.  I thought a dog was a pet.  I have learned a lot since and obviously would have done some things diferently.

   Regards, Len

1. 
   SparrowHawk | Sep 12, 2003 05:43pm | #11

   Hi Len,

   Well, with metal sandwiched in your bench I don't think drilling 3/4-1" holes is a good idea. Maybe it would be possible to replace the bench with something entirely wood? Mine is only 3/4" exterior ply in a corner against 2 walls but it works with dogs and even holdfasts (carefully). The good thing about woodworking dogs is that as long as they are in the bench holes you can tell them to stay and they will obey. If you have them loose then all bets are off ... sort of like the other sort of dogs. :+)

   Fingers are healing nicely, thanks ... just a bit distracting when the index finger is about 3/16" shorter than my brain thinks it is. I go to pick up something (very gingerly) ... and miss ... sigh. But I can tell I will be able to play guitar again and my woodworking won't be a problem. Lots of new jigs now so I can cut with my left hand in my pocket (fairly safe) and my right hand pushing on the other side of the fence from behind a piece of ply. I've come to the conclusion that I am very fond of all my fingers - you might say I'm quite attached to them - so keeping them intact for the rest of my life has become somewhat of a priority these days. :+)

   Be safe,Ken

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 12, 2003 06:40pm | #13

   **Hope this wasn't presented earlier.  I scanned quickly and didn't see it.

   Len, one of the simplest ways I've seen to hold something to a bench without protrusions right next to the workpiece is to use pairs of adjustable wooden-jaw clamps.  In your situation, it would only work if the picture frame stock is "higher" (thicker) than the jaws of the clamps of course.  You'd clamp the ends of the stocks into the first set of clamps with the clamps laying flat on the bench.  Then you'd use the other set of clamps to clamp the first set to the bench, with the offset being enough to keep the workpiece clear.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   JohnWW | Sep 12, 2003 04:44pm | #9

   Leonardo,

   Router tables have so many uses that you should plan on adding one to your shop eventually.  I'd recommend either a homemade or a full size commercial table.  The small hobbyist types from Sears and others aren't very useful.

   In the mean time heres a method you can use to hold down a piece while you use the router freehand:

   Attach the workpiece to a base of plywood or MDF using either screws into the back of the workpiece or double sided heavy duty carpet tape.  If the router bit needs to extend below the bottom edge of the workpiece, you can use an intermediate block that's slightly smaller than the workpiece to elevate it above the larger base.  Make the base large enough that it can be clamped to your bench without the clamps interfering with the router.

   Hope this helps, John W.

1. 
   BG | Sep 12, 2003 05:37pm | #10

   Leonardo,

   I finished building my router table a few weeks ago and last week but a half inch bevel on a 22x24" white oak top....what a dream...it was so easy and accurate.  For the previous 2-3 years I've been faced with the similar situation your describing.  The rubber pad works, but only if the piece is big enough, heavy enough and thick enough.  My only alternative was to either use a hand plane, sandpaper, etc. or come up with a jig which used the front vise on the workbench.  I have a fairly large bench hook which can be clamped in the front vise...it has a pony through the top vise/clamp that can be tightened on the stock.  In your case, this would allow the stock to extend beyond the workbench where you can get at it with the router ...and then move the stock around until each side is done...it is a bit of a white knuckler...

6. 
   withthegrain | Sep 12, 2003 06:03pm | #12

   Len,

   It took me years to finally get my shop together so I had to improvise several of the tools that I eventually bought or bulit. One of those was a router table/base. I just cut a nice piece of plywood to about three feet by two feet and drilled a large hole in the center to give clearance around the bits I was using. I then mounted the router on the bottom side of it and would clamp the whole thing to two saw horses. I never had any problems routing edges but would often clamp or screw a temp fence for routing in the center of a piece of wood. Obviously, I always made several passes just removing small amounts at a time. I eventually built a nice router table so I could do more complex operations like frame and panel doors. Hope this helps.

   Dennis

7. 
   BertJ | Sep 12, 2003 08:49pm | #14

   I agree with Dennis. One doesn't have to make a fancy router table, such as Norm's, to do what you want. Start with a flat ply or MDF piece--it would help if it had a smooth top of melamine. A straight piece of hardwood clamped to the table works just fine for a fence. As Dennis suggests, drill your hole and screw the router to the table. Secure it with clamps to your workbench and you will be able to enjoy consistent accuracy in your edging.

   BJ

1. 
   Leonardo | Sep 12, 2003 11:51pm | #15

   Thanks to all for the replys.  I think I will make something not too fancy as described above for now.  Some of the other ideas are great.  A couple of them I would never have thought of in a thousand years.  This is a Great resourse.  I'm sure do dip into this well of knowledge again.

   Regards to All, 

   Len

1. 
   cutoffcollector | Sep 13, 2003 06:08am | #16

   Len,

   You may want to consider using wedges to hold the piece that you want to rout. Nail a piece of scrap wood with at least one straight side to your bench or to a wide board, particle board, mdf or whatever. The scrap board should be as long as the piece that you wish to rout and preferably the same thickness as the board to be routed or thinner.Put the board to be routed next to the board that you just nailed.

   Now take a second board of the same thickness and length and cut from near one cornor to the opposite diagonal cornor. This will give you two wedge pieces. Take one of the two wedge pieces and place it on the other side of the board to be routed and off-set it with the wide end of the wedge shape sticking out past the end of the piece to be routed by 2 or 3 inches. Next take the remaining wedge piece, put it up next to the first wedge piece diagonal next to diagonal, BUT IN LINE WITH THE FIRST STRAIGHT BOARD THEN NAIL IT DOWN.

   Now tap the wedge end that sticks out and you will tighten the board to be routed and the loose wedge board against the two boards that are nailed down. If the scrap board is straight and the edges are parallel, you can use a router guide as well.

   Good luck,

   jon

2. 
   SparrowHawk | Sep 13, 2003 01:00pm | #17

   Hi Len,

   One other idea came to me while I was looking through the latest (?) Shop Notes - issue 71. It's a benchtop routing table that can either clamp to the table or  in a vise. When not in use it breaks down for easy storage.

   Ken

1. 
   PlaneWood | Sep 14, 2003 03:16am | #18

   Does your workbench have a wood top?

   Drill a couple of 1/4" holes about 4" in from the front of the work bench top and about 3' apart.  Make a couple of sturdy wood blocks about 2" x 6" and drill 3/8" holes in the centers.  Use 3/8" lag bolts to secure them to the holes drilled in the table top.  Wal-a - instant clamps!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   Leonardo | Sep 14, 2003 03:50pm | #19

   Ken,

   You know I got that same Shopnotes (#71) a couple of weeks ago but never thought of it as a posible solution to my clamping problem.  An example of omnidirectional thinking?  A good lesson for me.

   Len

1. 
   dovetail | Sep 15, 2003 01:39pm | #20

   I just picked up a copy of the Best-ever workshop solutions from better homes and gardens.  There is a very impressive router table on the front cover with insructions inside.  I plan to build one of these before the baby cradle project .