Any problems here? End pieces oriented vertically for small simple rabbeted box from quarter sawn stable hardwoods that glue well, no nails or pins or anything.
Thanks
Any problems here? End pieces oriented vertically for small simple rabbeted box from quarter sawn stable hardwoods that glue well, no nails or pins or anything.
Thanks
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Replies
The end boards are almost square, I see no reason why they would not be oriented like the sides to avoid differential wood movements.
Agree with gulfstar.
Wood shrinkage is about 0.1% along the grain and 4-7% across the grain. You are at the lower end with quarter sawn wood.
You can get away with anything if the moisture content will never change after glueup. The length of the glueline is also a factor. It doesn't look very long on the picture, so you might be okay.
I'd match the grain directions unless there's a good reason to do otherwise.
I glued something like that years ago (because I saw no other way). It worked for 10 years. Then we had a fire, and the house was unheated for a few months. The joints failed with the MC increase.
Wood shrinks the least along the long grain more across the width. As the other comment stated you should avoid that differential. Chances are small box won't show this but the chance is there. Also movement varies with species.
Any problems here? Yes - The sides and ends will go in different directions and leave the glue behind.
Although I completely agree with all the comments about wood movement, the chances of it making a practicable difference in such a small project is small. Not zero, but small. I should think your wood will survive. There are traditional forms which do this (the five board chest for instance) but they use nails to offset the movement rather than using glue.
That having been said, it's incongruous because the grain direction isn't right. Every box ever has the grain aligned and it's a bit jarring when it doesn't.
If it's not a critical piece (say an important gift or urn) why not make it and see - you will certainly learn from the process, and of course boxes are small so the cost is minimal.
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I was going to write what rob_ss did.
It might be fine. But why do it that way? Just run the grain in the same direction.
How small? 3" should be fine, 6" maybe not. How is the bottom held on/in?
Thanks, yes I'd seen pictures of antique salt and candle boxes made like that. I want to make a run of cheap and fast boxes from a nice locally available hardwood. It glues very poorly on end to long grain but its very good on long grain with a wipe down of acetone and abraded.
It is otherwise too hard and interlocked to do much else with.
Wrap the grain around the box, and reinforce the corners with Miller dowels. It's a fast and cheap way to add a lot of strength to these corners, and they look good too.
The box in your phtoo survived to be an antique because of the nails. A brad nailer could do the same for you without being too visible.
Would building them by only gluing in tapered wood Japanese nails or small bamboo dowel be ok?
You might have an issue with the bottom and the lid (if there are ones) because of that different orientation.