I’m gathering stuff for my next project which will be Norm’s Deluxe Router Station and am looking for suggestions from those who have built a router table. I have the plans but opted to forgo the video. From my research I get the idea that the one of the best routers for a table would be the Milwaukee 5625-20. I see it offers variable speed and height adjustments from above the table. A good price is around $300. Are there suggestions for a better fit or a more reasonable price? It’s not my idea to go cheap, but I wonder if, as an amateur, this might be overkill. Router lifts look great, but I am not considering that as an investment.
Presently I have a PC 690, mounted in a slab with short legs, that I fix to the workbench when in use It works, but has many limitations including the bits it will turn and the primitive fence that I made. So anything will be an improvement.
Your suggestions will be appreciated.
Roy
Replies
GG, I'm just now emerging from the "doesn't know squat" phase and consider myself capable of reasonable results on simple projects. Cannot claim real credibility in this crowd. Also, I'm verrry slow. I'm replying to you because I was for quite a long time extremely focused on the router table, now complete except for drawers. Sometimes "beginner to beginner" can be of value, I think.
My RT was my first "serious" project, a couple of years ago. I did it in reaction to the good value but not really adequate low cost table I had bought. The purchased table made by Freud was/is nice in its way and has done everything I could reasonably expect of it, but IMHO too light for many operations. I was also very frustrated by the primative depth control on my plunge router. Did I say I built my RT in "reaction" to this? More fair to say "overreaction" :
I came into a bit of unexpected $$, and ordered: Bench Dog Pro Top, Bench Dog Pro Lift, Bench Dog fence, PC 7518 router. I was not comfortable making my own top then, and the plunge depth frustration led me to (over) invest in the lift. I used pocket hole joinery in the table cab which went together well, aside from some design errors on my part that I was able to compensate for pretty easily. My table is wonderful and the second most used tool I have, but I really do not think the expense was justified.
If I had it to do over I would emulate the top design that I think routerman has suggested: no lift, simple MDF top with a fixed base body screwed in upside down. Nothing to catch on and easy to make a low friction flat surface. All that is "sacrificed" is precise above the table depth control. As past threads here indicate, the experts don't all feel fancy lifts are justified. Doing without gives waaaay better value for money. If you want to remain compatible with a commercial fence as a future option, dimension the top accordingly. I made a drill press table the same width and thickness and it's really nice to be able to use the BD fence with it.
With MDF some measures to stiffen the top are advisable to ensure flatness. I'd use angle iron and under cab partitions to get as close to the router as possible without sacrificing access or adjustability. Also, the 2 1/2" dust port I use with my Rigid 5.5HP (haha) shop vac is barely adequate to remove the bulk of dust. If you have better DC a 4" port would be my recommendation.
Then I could have used the money saved on high quality bits and lovely wood to make some furniture. Live and learn.
Edited 8/3/2005 2:17 pm ET by ram
Edited 8/3/2005 2:20 pm ET by ram
GR Gramps,
A coupla thoughts from my experience with Norm's router table. I built mine about 2 years ago more or less on a shoe string budget. I had a piece of melamine for the top that I backed up with 1/4" hardboard to give me a 1" thick top. I modified the Dewalt 2 hp plunge router ...and I used an acrylic insert from Benchdog. It was a fun build and it worked great.
Over time however, the top began to sag in the center so about 3 months ago I built a new top (1 1/4") with a Rockler steel insert and I'm still using the Dewalt. The Dewalt does all I ask, but I'd like a bigger unit. However, I am concerned that the heavier unit will again cause the top to sag...unfortunately, routing is very often the last step before finishing...not when we'ed like to learn our router was not square to the stock. My guess is there is a limit as to how much we can depend on non-cast iron top equipment.
I made my router table top out of 2 pieces of 3/4 baltic birch plywood face laminated to give me a 1 1/2" thick top. I put in some aluminum T track and mite guage slot and then banded the edge with 1 1/2" widex3/4" thick oak. Put in a Benchdog plate.
I finished it with an oil finish on all sides. It is 2' deep and 2 1/2' wide.
Made it 2 years ago. I use a Makita 2 1/4HP router in it and it is still dead flat.
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 8/3/2005 3:26 pm ET by Rick503
Rick503,
Yes, building a thicker, stronger top in the first place would have been better. My point to Gramps was/is Norm's router table provides a substantial web of support for the top with a 3/4" ply infrastructure. It would seem that, given that support, a one inch top with hardboard backing would have been adequate to support a Dewalt 2hp, but it wasen't. The 3 1/4 hp routers are quite a bit heavier...
BG,
Next time try surfacing both top and underside with plastic laminate and you'll find that apart from keeping it more rigid it will also keep moisture from affecting the underside of the table which will eventually cause the sag you have mentioned.
Brian
Brianmexico,
I ended up with a double laminated top. Actually, I bought an old office desk from the 60's that had imitation walnut formica on both sides..and some very dense material on the inside...cost $2 and quite heavy. I wrapped that with 1" white oak..so far so good.
BG,
And you recycled too, great idea.
Brian
I built Norm's first router table a few years ago and it's been doing sterling servise since. About the only prob I've had with it was remedied by adding a port for my DC to allow additional airflow around the router; without it things got a wee bit hot in there...
As for the router, I canna recommend the Freud FT 2000E highly enough; oodles of oomph with soft start, variable speed, single key bit changes and built in fine height adjustment at a price that won't break the bank...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I built Norms table with a few mods. I went with a commercial fence and put casters under mine. I got the PC 7518 with woodpeckers PRL. Heck of a combo. Here is a link to some pic's of mine. Good luck I enjoyed making mine.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=20473.1
Bones, you outdid yourself, that's a fantastic router table. If I made something that handsome it would be in the family room - not in the shop. Does the PC 7518 offer any adjustment from above the table? I already have several PC's and there is no question of their quality, but in this case I have been looking at the Milwaukee 5625-20 as it offers adjustment from above. I haven't seen the router, so it's not clear to me how this works. Perhaps someone can explain it.
Roy
Thanks for the comments. The glass was not my doing. The wife is into glass and I saw someone else do it and copied. The 7518 does not provide for above the table adjustment like raising and lowering the bit. It was not an issue for me because I used woodpeckers PRL. It has incremental adjustments (1/32nd). I also have the PC894PK combo kit that provides above the table adjustment, but it does not have the power of the 7518. I use the 894 for hand held stuff. I bought the 7518 just to go in the table. After doing all the research and getting a lot of feedback here and at other sites the 7518 was kind of the standard. It's a horse. I'm sure there are other ones out there, but that 7518 is a hog. I also added a chuck that allowed for easy bit change so you don't need offset wrenches. Take care
http://www.woodpeck.com/quickchuck.html
I have the 5625-20 and absolutely love it. The adjustment is precise and easy as pie. It's best to have a look at one of them, then the adjustment mechanism will be obvious. Basically there is a hole in the bottom of the base you can insert a T wrench into. Losen the motor and you can adjust the height from above the table. I looked on the Milwaukee website but couldn't find a picture of how to adjust it.
When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka
You might check out Lee Valley's router table top. I got one , at the suggestion of another forum member, and it is really nice and it has plans for either a stand that allows the top to be tilted up with supports (which I built) or a more elaborate table. They have a number of accessories for it and it is not that expensive. It doesn't have a lift , as such, but I found the tilting top feature to satisfy my needs.
To All Who Answered: You guys have made some significant suggestions and they are much appreciated. Seems like the emphasis is on a stout table top, with good reason since the big routers are heavy. I have an idea that Norm's original plan may have had a lighter top than the laminated 1 1/4" top in the current plan. He now calls for 3/4" MDF laminated to 1/2" with a high pressure laminate to top it off. This is then wrapped in oak which looks good and may add a little stiffness. I notice too, the idea of laminating the bottom surface to help stability.
I bought a Rousseau router base plate http://www.rousseauco.com/model3509.htm at an earlier tool show and hope that, with the top, will support the Milwaukee 5625-20. One of my tall friends has a table that's 42" high and that feels good to me, so that will be one modification in the plan. I have found that at my age (and height) my back starts to feel tired after working at my benches and tables that are standard height. Perhaps a set of 4" casters will take care of some of the additional height.
Do you think my ShopVac will be sufficient for pickup? (All these concerns and I haven't even looked and the fence yet.)
Roy
I am chiming in late, but I built the deluxe table per the plans and video.
Except -- since I work long hours and travel in my other work, my goal was to get the table built as soon as possible, and have it cut time when I use it.
So, instead of building the fence per the plans I used the Jessem fence. That meant I had to modify the plans to build the cabinet 2" less in the side to side width. No problem.
I used the big PC router and the Jessem MastRLift. I have had no sag in the top, and it is a heavy router. The lift makes adjustments very quick and easy, as well as changing bits.
Yes, it cost more money than using something I already had (just because I had it) or making do with something on sale at the moment. My goal was not to be proud of something that was inexpensive, it was to be proud of a tool that does what I need reliably, quickly, and accurately. That way, when my precious woodworking time is available, I am working the wood, not arguing with the tool.
Alan - planesaw
Seems like the emphasis is on a stout table top...NOT knocking that... BUT!
Just remember the thicker the top.. The shorter the bit extends.. Well, can be a problem sometimes with many bits..How do I know? Well, I have made some like that.. I had to route out a area in the top to bring the router closer to the table top..
Still pretty strong and caused no problems.. I have 5 router tables (sorry.. Tops to put in a mobile base) not counting the one in the TS.. Three of the tops are set up for door parts. Each top has it own router and bit set-up.. Saves ALOT of set-up time... BUT uses up ALOT of space for all them tops..Lee Valley has has a NICE steel (strong and FLAT) top for a GOOD price.. NO I do not have one but looks good!..Just me..
GR Gramps,
I too built Norms router table. Here is the link. Used the PRL an 7518. Also got the Wood[eckers oscillating sander plate so the table does double duty. Great setup.
TDF
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=11623.1
Gramps---as far as price goes try this site:
http://www.heavydutytools.net I purchased mine for $232 delivered to my door last year. His regular price is about $285m but often sells it on one day sales for around $230. Register for the email notices of sales.
I have a clone of Norms table, and it works very well. When I build my next one, there will be room for two routers since I often find myself performing operations that involve two types of cuts. (eg rail and stile/panels )
The lamination on the bottom surface of the table top is to keep moisture from being absorbed there and causing the top to warp.
I use a Woodpeckers Plunge Lift with a Hitachi M12v, and plan to add the big millwaukee on the next table. For now Iall I need to do is switch out plates.routers when I need to change.
SMIJAL, You are a prince! I thought that I knew my way around tool shopping and that Amazon had everyone beat. They are asking $299 (free shipping) and you have found heavydutytools that offers it for $278 (free shipping).
I presume others have bought from them and can vouch for them?
Nothing like a bargain. Thanks,
Roy
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