Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 19, 2002 07:09pm | #1

   Hi Jamie, this is Jamie :-)  With a 3HP router (big) you could consider putting in some sort of router lift, or at the very least an aftermarket gizmo that makes the height adjustment easier.  Are you planning on a fixed-based or plunge router for your table?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   JamieFichter | Sep 19, 2002 09:05pm | #3

   Hi Jamie, you have the COOLEST name!  :~P

   I think plunge router would be the best, although I am open to suggestions...my experience with router tables is limited.  I have heard/read the stories about height adjustment hassles on these tables.  Seems like those positioning mechanisms would be a time saver there...

   I have a plunge 1 1/2 HP now, but of course it only accepts 1/4 inch shank bits.  I want to do some more frame and panel type construction for doors (smaller sizes), and was thinking that the router table is the way to go.   (i've read the shaper vs router table arguments, but...seems like the router table can be just as versatile for the Weekend Warrior...)

   The "other" Jamie

2. 
   Axnhammer | Sep 19, 2002 09:05pm | #2

   I built Norm's router table a couple of years ago and I am very pleased with it.  I made a few modifications using the router plate support system from Woodhaven and modifying the drawers for both bit storage (on one side) and tool storage on the other.  I use a Freud 2000FE router with the plunge springs removed.  I do not have a router lifter and find that changing bits and adjusting height is not a major issue for me.

   Paul

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/19/2002 2:07:45 PM ET by HERB_PS

3. 
   RandMCapozzi | Sep 19, 2002 10:26pm | #4

   Hi Jamie,

   I built Norm's router table using his plans (see the attached file, hopefully). The 1" Melamine (sp?) was pricey. I had to get a full sheet! I'm building a large table top for a craft table out of the rest. It would have been cheaper to glue two 3/4" MDF together and liminate it.

   Other changes I made was using 3/4" plywood for the fence. I think Norm uses solid but I didn't want to deal with possible warping on the fence so the whole thing is ply.

   The dust collect is wonderful. It does an awesome job of keeping the dust in the vacuum and out of the air.

   The only other change I would recommend is to put the access door on a hinge to make access a bit faster.

   The hardest part was routing out the top for the router plate.

   The whole thing was a bit pricey though. I think, all told I paid nearly $400 for everything (wood and hardware). It's a great router table with plenty of room. Sure beats that old craftsman bench table I had!

   Good luck,

   --Rob

   
4. 
   LeeEschen | Sep 19, 2002 11:31pm | #5

   Hi Jamie & welcome,

   Might I suggest that you check out a few other plans before you decide? I really hate to mention a competing magazine on the FWW forum, but such is the nature of forums.

   I have decided to build the router table from Woodsmith #131 (http://www.BackIssueStore.com/backissuesstore/wsback131.html), though I have not yet started construction. It has some unique features that bear consideration. At least go to the website and read the description. The back issue, assuming you don't already have it, is only $4.95 and can be ordered at the website.

   The tabletop in this project is 3/4" hardwood ply, sandwiched between two 1/4" hardboard layers, edged with 3/4x1-1/4" hardwood, then again sandwiched between two layers of plastic laminate (your choice for color/pattern). This gives a 1-3/8 or so thick table virtually guarenteed to remain flat. It's also somewhat cheader than buying a full sheet of prelaminated melamine as Norm's project suggests.

   The issue also includes plans for an excellent fence for the table.

   Best of luck with whichever table you decide to build and once again, welcome to Knots.

5. 
   PaulGeer1 | Sep 20, 2002 05:41pm | #6

   Hi Jamie,

   I built Norm's  router station and liked the design, especially that big drawer. You can't beat the dust collection either.

   The Bench Dog router table looks like a good idea but expensive, I've been using the router plate Norm suggested with a Porter Cable Mod. 75182 3hp variable speed fixed based router. I also used the PC mod. 7538 plunge base router 3hp but find the a fix base model easier to adjust than the plunge, also no springs to remove.

   I think too you'll find the variable speed router to be useful on larger bits, like panel rising bits.

   And while you're at it might as well start using 1/2" shank bits where you can.

   Just my thoughts.

   Good luck.

   Paul

1. 
   JamieFichter | Sep 20, 2002 07:50pm | #7

   Thanks for all the comments everyone...

   Rob:  Your table looks great!  Why don't you just sell me that one for $50 and I'll be satisfied?????

   Jamie

1. 
   Colinsdad | Sep 20, 2002 10:30pm | #8

   I also built the NYW table and it is a fun project. The suggestions I have made to others based on my experiences are to eliminate the toe kick and make a flush bottom so that you can mount it on casters and not have it be too high. Also, eliminate some of the bit drawers in favor of additional tool storage as someone else mentioned. I did use a hinged door and it works great. I have a Freud FT2000E plunge router in the table and it is not too much of a hassle to adjust. I actually find that adjusting it from underneath puts me in a good position to view the bit height! The other suggestion is to create a little larger overhang on the top to better attach featherboards, especially if you don't put in a miter slot (which I didn't).

6. 
   MikeK50 | Sep 22, 2002 02:48am | #9

   Jamie,

   You might also check out Woodhaven's (http://www.woodhaven.com) router table cabinet, #365.  The design is similar.  Since I already bought Woodhaven's router table top, I bought their plans.  They also sell a hardware kit that inlcudes the hinges, drawer pulls, etc.  I like the extra storage and the door over the router opening. 

   I just bought the 12 ply, 3/4" birch plywood today, so I am anxious to retire the metal legs that I have used to support my router table for many years.

   Mike