Replies

1. 
   Norse | Feb 19, 2004 04:40pm | #1

   I have the same router and lift (love them both!) and built my own version of Norm's table. Its not a difficult project and is indeed, good practice at drawing and designing. If you have a table saw, you're in business!

   I used two layers of 3/4 mdf for the top with plastic laminate on that. Particle board or plywood would work too. I made a much taller fence (9" total) than Norm's and added a t-track slot about 6" up for feather boards. My fence is held in place with t-track bolts and I installed another running parallel with the fence for feather boards on the flat. I also installed a miter gauge slot.

   So for the price of the hardware, a couple sheets of decent plywood, and a sheet of mdf and the laminate (about $150) and of course some time, you can have a great table.

   Good luck,

   Norse

2. 
   BG | Feb 19, 2004 04:41pm | #2

   Bones,

   I built Norm's router table and so have several others.  Tom Ferrira (sp?) posted pictures....pretty close to the same set up your contemplating.  It's an easy and fun project to build and is well thought out.  Except for the top, it takes about 2 sheets of 3/4" ply and a 1/2 sheet of half inch ply.

   You may want to search in gallery for router tables...
1. 
   lynnroy | Feb 20, 2004 11:55pm | #17

   Before you build a table I sugest you read the following books:

   Router joinery workshop by carol reed

   Router joinery by Gary Rogowski

   Router joinery Handbook by Pat Warner

   I have a small shop and a router table takes up alot of my room. I am in the process of converting my router table to a set of drawers and using a combination of small jigs to replace it. I am sure many disagree with me but space is precious to me and perhaps it is to you also.

   I especially like Gary Rogowski's sense of humor and common sense approach to woodworking.

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 21, 2004 02:43am | #20

   After watching Ragowski's video I realize it's the craftsman not the table that counts in routing.

   He just clamps a flat board to his table with his router mounted in the middle and his fence is just a straight piece of hardwood clamped to the board with C clamps.

   Only scary thing is that his hands are his jigs. But he sure makes it look safe and easy.

3. 
   Napie | Feb 19, 2004 05:22pm | #3

   Buy a 1 1/2 hp shaper, you'll be a lot farther ahead.

4. 
   JDorn | Feb 19, 2004 06:01pm | #4

   I just finished up building 2 of norms tables over the last 2 weekends, both came out great and I'd recommend his plans, though one problem i found with them is that he assumes the plywood you will be building the case out of will be 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 exactly in his measurements, so since most plywood you find will be undersized you'll need to remember to keep accounting for that loose 1/32nd to make everything fit just right.

   But other than that I found the project relatively easy and rewarding when I got finished with them.

   JD

1. 
   bones | Feb 19, 2004 07:43pm | #6

   Has anybody seen the video you can get with it. Just curious?

5. 
   RandMCapozzi | Feb 19, 2004 06:49pm | #5

   Bones,

   I built Norm's first version of the deluxe router table about 4 years ago. I currently run it with the PC 7518 and the Woodpecker PRL (originally used my PC 690 and a Rousseau insert). It is a very nice setup! Norm's newest version of the router table addresses several of the first versions minor shortfalls. Those include a better fence system for attaching jigs/feather boards, better access to the router via a hinged door, and taller router bit drawers. In addition, I would increase the amount the table top overhangs the cabinet to make clamping jigs easier.

   Dust collection is excellent. I used mine with a small 8gal shop vac for several years with excellent results. The newer version has a different setup but I'm sure it is just as good if not better.

   The table is heavy so you might want to think about mobility plans if you want to move it around your shop. Even with the top off and draws out, it is still a hand full to move around.

   I thought it was an excellent project. It was one of my first and I learned quite a bit, had fun, and the end result was a great tool! The plans for the version I built were good. The measurements and details for the top were difficult to translate and the video came in handy for it. I have several other NYW plans and they have all been pretty well put together.

   Here's a picture of the router table before I added the 7518 and PRL. I used red oak ply for the cabinet and fence. 1" melamine was used for the top and wrapped in the solid oak.

   --Rob

   
1. 
   bones | Feb 19, 2004 07:50pm | #7

   Sorry I did not see your comment about the video before I asked my last question about the functionality of the video. Very nice job on the project.

   Did you get the PRL with the 16 or 32 threads. I know the 32 will require a lot of cranking, but I am leaning that way. I thought of using a power drill to do bit changes, and use the regular crank to make minor adjustment. Any thoughts?

   Thanks for the input.

   Edited 2/19/2004 11:55:31 AM ET by bones

1. 
   RandMCapozzi | Feb 20, 2004 05:48pm | #11

   I have the 32 thread PRL.  A drill would certainly speed things up. I haven't found the extra cranking to change out bits to be burdensome at all. I really like the finer adjustment afforded by the higher thread count.

   --Rob

6. 
   woodcraftsma | Feb 19, 2004 08:07pm | #8

   I built Norm's router table three years ago.  It was one of the best investments I made.  I use the table to make moldings from blanks as well as put edges on larger stock.

   The most recent changes he made to the table design are minor improvements to the original design.  I recommend the table and would also suggest that you do not install the toe kick.  Instead add high quality wheels with locking wheels at the front of the table so you can move it easily yet still make it stationary when needed.  I added the wheels and it gives me more flexibility.

   I have seem router table plans in some of the Fine Woodworking magazine issues.  I am considering taking a few things from those plans and incorporating them into Norm's plans.

   One of the downsides to Norm's table is that you can only rout with the router in the horizontal position.  It has not been an issue for me, but you should consider it if you need the router in a stationary vertical position.

   Good luck.

   Sam

1. 
   RandMCapozzi | Feb 20, 2004 05:55pm | #12

   Sam,

   Funny you should mention not building the toe kick. That is one particular feature of the cabinet that I have found makes working at it very comfortable. I do agree that the toe kick does present a less stable base for moving it around though.

   --Rob

1. 
   BG | Feb 20, 2004 07:08pm | #13

   Rob,

   I put the toe kick in...and put it on good wheels...its such a big box the stability is fine.  However, now that it's on wheels the toe kick is unnecessary perhaps.  I just added a square of 2x material on the underside for the wheels...

7. 
   jazzdogg | Feb 19, 2004 10:07pm | #9

   Bones,

   It may be heresy to mention it on this forum, but there's a good article in the April, 2004 "Woodwork" magazine. The idea in the "Woodwork" table that appeals to me is hanging the router and lift from a subassembly attached to the cabinet, rather than suspending it from the top.

   Their design doesn't have drawers and other convenience features, but it has a few ideas worth incorporating in Norm's otherwise excellent design.

   BTW, when I attended the Woodworks 2004 show in Ontario, California, I saw an intriguing router table being used to demonstrate door making bits by a router bit vendor: their set-up had three motors and fences set up side-by-side in the same table, which enabled them to set up and adjust the cope, stick, and raised panel router bits simultaneously and perform production runs that would save countless hours when compared to the normal methods using a single table-mounted router.

   FWIW,
   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/19/2004 5:13:39 PM ET by jazzdogg

1. 
   aew | Feb 19, 2004 11:39pm | #10

   I've recently noticed a couple of designs that hang the router from the cabinet back instead of from the top plate and it seems to me that this introduces some potential problems with alignment of the router bit to the top.  I would think that the high weight of the large routers, given the way the Woodwork table was designed, would cause some sagging and wear in the clamp area of the brace. 

   Has anyone built and used one of these "back hanger" tables and are there any problems with alignment, etc.?

   AEW

8. 
   alanplanesaw | Feb 20, 2004 09:07pm | #14

   I built the "new" version just a couple of months ago.  Plans were great.  Video was great.  I used the Jessem MastRLift and Jessem Fence.  The fence is 2 inches shorter so I took two inches out of the width of the table.  Made the 2 smaller drawers on bottom 2 inches narrower and took 2 inches out of the center where the router hangs.  Love it! Alan - planesaw

1. 
   badoyn | Feb 20, 2004 10:44pm | #15

   Is the video just a replay of his show?

   Michael

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Feb 21, 2004 03:22am | #21

   Probably.  But it gives you a chance to look at any part of it 1,438 times (and more) if you need to keep looking at one particular part.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   Robbie | Mar 04, 2004 10:43pm | #22

   Rob:

   How much total overhang would you recommend for the router table top?  Am just building mine.  Also, any reason to make the top 1.25" thick rather than 1.5" thick?  I have lots of 3/4" MDF around.

   Bob

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 04, 2004 11:00pm | #23

   An MDF top no matter what thickness needs to be well supported underneath, very close to the router panel opening to prevent the top from dishing in over a period of months.  The two or three top rated commercial router tables all have extra support close to the opening to prevent distortion.  If you do support the top right at the edge of the opening, then a 3/4 inch thick top is sufficient.

   John W.

   Edited 3/4/2004 6:17 pm ET by JohnW

9. 
   DougF | Feb 20, 2004 11:30pm | #16

   Bones,

   I just posted pics of my recently constructed router cabinet in the Gallery.  The plans, although somewhat modified, come from a publication on routers.   So, if you are spending money for plans you might consider this option and get a fine router book at the same time.  Either way, have fun.

   Doug 

1. 
   bones | Feb 21, 2004 01:18am | #18

   That is a piece of Art!!!! The stained glass is a nice touch.  I think I'm sold. I will probable get the plan & video and do as others and make minor modifications. I went to E-bay and hoped someone would have the plan & video for sale. The only thing under Norm was an autograph picture.

   What was the publication you mentioned as the base for your plan?

   Thanks again for all the valuable input from every one. 

1. 
   DougF | Feb 21, 2004 01:21am | #19

   Bones,

   "Woodworking with the Router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack.  You can buy it thorugh Taunton Press.  It is a very good reference book with many helpful ideas and router jig designs.

   Doug