Nova Voyager Drill Press Chuck Runout
I am a hobbyist woodworker replacing an old but serviceable Delta bench top drill press with a floor model, Nova Voyager. A long budgeting path to this purchase but looking forward to working with it.
I picked up the drill press from the Rockler store here in Richmond last week. I have finished assembly and just powered up the drill press this morning.
The chuck has a significant runout which I have measured to be 0.014.” I contacted customer service at the manufacturer but their customer service is closed on Fridays ?!
I would like to ask a couple of questions to the forum before I talk to customer service on Monday.
1. What should the run out be on a quality drill press? I want to be prepared if their answer is “they all do that” or “that’s within our specs.”
2. Has anyone else had this experience with this drill press?
I know that OEM chucks are not typically the best. If the manufacturer is uncooperative in replacing this chuck with one that meets my needs, then I will advise this and other woodworking forums and Rockler of this customer service experience and ask your advice on an alternative.
Thanks in advance for advice and assistance.
Russ
Replies
That seems like an awful lot.
How/where are you measuring?
I have this drill press. The run out has never been more than 1-3 thou.
Have you installed the the tapered parts properly into the chuck and into the motor? It's easy to let dirt or some other foreign body get between the tapering surfaces so that they don't go together exactly as they should, with a wobble such as you describe resulting.
If the tapered shaft has had a serious blow, it might have got slightly bent .... but that seems unlikely unless it happened during manufacture; or has been very badly mishandled during packing or shipping.
Try taking out the chuck from the drill and the arbor shaft from the chuck, cleaning them thoroughly then re-inserting the arbor and reinstalling as per the manual. Both the arbor and the seatings into the drill motor spindle as well as into the chuck have to be very clean.
As the manual says, don't whack the arbor into the chuck or the motor spindle with a hard hammer as that will damage things - perhaps to the extent that you get a wobble!. They need tapping in/together with a softer hammer, giving the parts a bit of a wiggle-turn to make sure they're centering properly as you do it.
Lataxe
PS, As Mr Webber mentions, make sure you're measuring the chuck run out rather than the bend of something held in its jaws that you might be measuring against. And make sure the thing-in-the-jaws is properly held (centrally) in the chuck jaws rather than with a slight cant. :-)
Thanks for the inputs. I cleaned the arbor with with WD-40 before inserting onto the chuck and then into the spindle socket. I used a dead blow hammer with rubber cover to insert the arbor in the chuck and seat the arbor in the spindle.
I measured the run out using a gauge riding on the body of the chuck (see attached photos).
The end of the arbor that inserts into the spindle has a flat flange that presumably seats inside the spindle. I rotated the chuck within the spindle to find the internal slot that permits full insertion into spindle by hand. The second photo shows the way in which the arbor is seated.
If I need to remove the chuck and arbor to re-inspect, is it difficult to loosen the Morse tapers that hold everything together and how do I go bout this?
If I have done something wrong in assembly I will own it. I just want to be sure I have not overlooked something on my end before assuming that the chuck or arbor is faulty.
As the others say, the chuck body is not necessarily perfectly concentric in its outer parts. It only needs the jaws to hold drill bits and so forth so that they have no run-out.
You can buy pieces of very straight and very round steel stock to use as the thing against which to measure any run out of whatever is held in the jaws. Many good quality drill bits are also good enough for this purpose, though. AFter all, as John C2 mentions, its drill bits you'll be using and not wanting to wobble.
******
To take the arbor from the motor spindle, there's a small tool that should have come with your drill press - a "chuck drift" - item 12 on page 6 of the manual. As I recall, you can expose a slot in the works where this tool can go in to act as a lever in prising the arbor from the motor spindle.
To get the arbor from the chuck once the two are out of the drill, put the drill chuck on a bench with the arbor down a bench dog hole, with the chuck jaws open & facing up, then tap through the jaws on the arbor end until it pops loose from the chuck. Careful taps rather than big wallops! And catch the arbor before it hits any concrete floor. :-)
But I'd measure run out again on a proper thing held in the jaws. You may find the run out far less than what you measured agin' the chuck outer.
Lataxe
I have the Voyager. It's a wonderful machine. I've never measured runout on it, or anything. It drills great.
Have you tried drilling with yours?
As @John_c2 says - does it drill?
You are not measuring a relevant aspect of performance - you don't care what the tolerances on the outer part of the chuck are, so measuring there is not going to tell you anything useful. It is quite possible that that is machined to a relatively low tolerance and in any case, it has to move freely to work, so is unlikely to be exactly concentric with the axis of the drill.
Chuck up a quality 10mm drill bit and measure that if you have difficulty making precise holes.
Might be useful to check runout at the shaft above the chuck. Looks like a big chuck and a small shaft.
Not sure if there is an indexing slot for the Morse taper to align into. If not then you can try to align the chuck so that runout is minimized — similar to Roland johnson method for dealing with wobble on a grinding wheel.
I don’t know how a machinist removes a Morse taper. I put a weight on a string and hung it off a forstner bit chucked into the drill. Then held the chuck in one hand and gently tapped on the chuck. (Similar to holding a stuck router bit and tapping it loose on the nut)
Thanks to everyone for helpful comments.
This morning I inserted a 1/2" quality bit into the chuck and tightened everything down. I measured the run out at the top of the bit to be 0.18" and at the bottom of the bit outside the flutes at 0.46". Pictures attached.
The wobble with the bit in was even more obvious. The bit chattered on the wood as it entered and the hold was clearly not concentric with the bit.
Although I cleaned the arbor before inserting it originally, I didn't take a look at the inside of the chuck or spindle.
I think the next step is to remove the arbor from the spindle and the chuck and reinspect. Thanks to Lat_axe for guidance on doing that.
I am just hoping that this can be fixed without sending the head assembly back to the manufacturer for warranty service. It must weight 75 pounds.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your advice.
Russ
Update: I have been able to measure the run out of the arbor where it exits the spindle (photo attached). Run out was 0.002". (Thanks to stamant for that suggestion).
It appears that the source of the wobble is most likely associated with the fit of the arbor to the chuck or the chuck itself.
I am relieved that the problem seems not to involve the spindle. (If I have drawn the wrong conclusion, let me know and I'll keep worrying that it is something major).
I don't see how to remove the arbor and chuck from the spindle using the tool provided, so I'll wait until Monday to talk to customer service before proceeding.
I just feel better having some folks who have experience with this drill respond to the original question.
Russ
I have a floor mount press that came with a crappy chuck. I always wanted a keyless chuck anyway, so I bought on from Amazon, (~$45), and switched it out with the factory chuck. What a difference! The runout is now about as small as I can measure, and I'm not searching for the dang key anymore, either.
The chances are the source of runout is the chuck. Bent shafts and bad bearings are possible, but unlikely. A chuck's internals are complex, and the most likely culprit. Dump the cheap factory chuck.
I would like to close out this tread with how it worked out.
I contacted the manufacturer (Teknatool) and sent them the run out data that I had measured and pictures of how I measured it.
I got an immediate reply from Rich, the customer service manager. He agreed that something was out of spec and replaced the arbor and chuck with an upgrade to their keyless model. Unfortunately the package was lost by FedEx in transit (how often does this happen?!).
I advised Rich immediately. He took another chuck and arbor from stock, tested both for runout and shipped to me. All in a matter of days.
I mounted the replacements on the drill press this morning. I measured the run out and confirmed that it was in mfg. spec. Drilled several 2" forstner bit holes today on a project that had been on hold. All good.
Customer service is not always good and most of us have experienced that aggravation. This was a really good experience that I wanted to share. (I have no connection to Teknatool other than as a customer).
Thanks again for the helpful advice in troubleshooting the problem. I agree with John C2 - this is a great drill press.
Russ
Nice. Thanks for the closure.