Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Mar 11, 2011 07:17am | #1

   Steps

   I would stain - seal - fill - finish -

   In your case sealing is important when using a wipe on finish over a stain

   SA

2. 
   umbach | Mar 11, 2011 07:55am | #2

   So will the seal and finish steps both be my wipe

   On finish? Or, is the seal a different product?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 11, 2011 09:16am | #3

   It would help if you could give us some additional information.  What wood?  What kind of furnture?  What stained look are you aiming for? 

   In general I first dye to establish a basic color, then seal to keep pore filler from affecting the basic surface color too dramatically, then fill with tinted filler.  Let filler fully cure.  Then apply top coats. 

   But, if you have in mind a light to moderate color stain, then you might be able to achieve this look by just tinting the pore filler and applying it to bare wood, whre it acts as both stain and filler.  I don't use this method because I like the control and richer look from the dye then stain process. 

3. 
   umbach | Mar 11, 2011 10:56am | #4

   I'm staining birch with a minwax oil stain. I know birch isnt a big open grain like say oak. But Im experimenting. Tint moe of a middle road brown. The pore filler is Behlen non tinted. I'm using arm r seal wipe on finish. The piece is a corner tv stand. Based on your post thus far, I should stain then seal with my arm r seal followed by pore filler and then complete with my arm r seal. Ive just never used pore filler and didn't want to ruin the top for staining.

1. 
   Westchester | Mar 11, 2011 11:08am | #5

   Filler

   You don't need filler for Birch -

   and if you never used pore filler -  you'll need practice

   SA

4. 
   gstilwell | Mar 18, 2011 11:37pm | #6

   Pore filing

   I'm not experienced with Birch, but Cherry will respond well to Bullseye dewaxed shellac before staining. I've used Liberon Walnut Crystals with success after aplication of the shellac and sanding to 400 grit,  or no colorant at all. You may get good results also by "wet sanding" the wood with shellac-- the resulting 'slurry' will fill the grain with the natural wood--no need to use artificial fillers. This technique needs to go fast, keep a wet, flooded surface, you don't have a lot of time before the Shellac starts to dry. it's forgiving, though, you can always sand/scrape back to the surface.

   Note-don't use "wet-or-dry" sanding papers-they will inpart darker carbon-like residue. use Garnet paper, if possible.