Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 30, 2010 12:02pm | #1

   I'm no dye expert, have used Transtint once to even out some walnut, but I'll give my opinion on two of the questions.

   #2:  I would start weak and add dye until satisfied.  You'll use a lot less dye that way (and the stuff's not cheap, right?).  And that method will make it a lot easier to reproduce a shade down the road (x# of drops per quart or whatever)

   #6 Any time I use water on wood, I use distilled water.  Minerals can cause problems too.

   Have fun!!

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 30, 2010 05:51pm | #2

   Jamie:

   This dye is all powdered rather than liquid, and all the instructions are stated in terms of so many pints of water to the ounce.  My packets are one ounce each.  UNlike, sday, Peter and probably Steve, I couldn't mix freehand because I don't know what the final solution should look like, so rather than breaking out the scale and calculating cups or mililiters, I was hoping to mix a strong solution first and dilute from there.  But it could be much simpler...

   I wouldn't know

   Cheers!

   J

1. 
   DonStephan | Mar 30, 2010 07:58pm | #3

   The recommendations I have seen are pretty unanimous in suggesting mixing full strength, then dilute as necessary.  If you have a very fine scale (tenths of a gram) you can mix small quantities full strength, otherwise the suggestion might mean mixing entire quantity of a color with the full strength amount of water.  Distilled water is great suggestion - iron content of tap water can cause dark spots on cherry and oak, perhaps some other woods as well.

   If full strength solution at hand, can mix fairly accurately a lesser concentration using small syringes to measure small quantities of liquid.  Syringes might be available at pharmacies.

2. 
   DonStephan | Mar 30, 2010 07:59pm | #4

   The recommendations I have seen are pretty unanimous in suggesting mixing full strength, then dilute as necessary.  If you have a very fine scale (tenths of a gram) you can mix small quantities full strength, otherwise the suggestion might mean mixing entire quantity of a color with the full strength amount of water.  Distilled water is great suggestion - iron content of tap water can cause dark spots on cherry and oak, perhaps some other woods as well.

   If full strength solution at hand, can mix fairly accurately a lesser concentration using small syringes to measure small quantities of liquid.  Syringes might be available at pharmacies.

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 30, 2010 11:28pm | #5

   While you might use less dye starting weak and working strong, you run the danger of running out of powder before you reach the desired concentration.  That's why its generally  better to start strong and dilute until you get the des9ired strength.  Unless you have in mind some dramatic colors--like a really dark expresso or ebony, you would easily be concentrated enough to start at 2x concentration.   I often find my self using dye considerably weaker than the package suggestion, but that might be because I am usually trying to just adjust the shade of wood, not create an entirely different color.  

   If you mix the full ounce, with a measured amount of water it is easy to reproduce a given concentration, without having to use a fine scale to measure the powder. 

   Mason jars make great mixing containers because they are made for measuring, and are relatively inexpensive.  But they can break. 

2. 
   sapwood | Mar 31, 2010 10:54am | #6

   You can read advice from others from now until doomsday but you still won't know anything until you mix up some dye at different concentrations and slather it onto some wood, put on a finish coat, then compare the tests. Just do this. 

   I find disposable plastic soda and water bottles for dye are perfect. They cost nothing, don't break when dropped, come in a variety of sizes, and they can be recycled into decking later on. I especially like the tiny ones they give to first class airline passengers for storing dye samples. 

   I posted a couple of months ago regarding dye color shift when stored for extended periods. The Lockwood company informed me that after mixing, their dyes will change color. Others here doubted this and Peter Gedrys was going to look into it. I don't know if anyone found out further info. 

3. 
   woodcrafter | Mar 31, 2010 07:28pm | #7

   Hi Joe,

   I've been transitioning over to using dyes for some time. Here's what I do know from experience regarding your questions. And I am by no means a dyeologist, knowoledgist or the like.

   As was mentioned - be consistant. Start with a base "formula" and mix same ratios. Adjust from that base.

   I use a liquid version but normaly mix 1oz powder per quart of liquid. If the wood your going to dye is prone to reacting to iron (tap water) use distilled water. Typically this goes hand in hand with tannin levels - oak for instance being subject to reactive. This could manifest itself as gray blotches after drying. Also mix with warm-hot water, let cool then strain as mentioned, natural coffee filter works in a pinch.

   Shelf life for a waterbased mix - hmm, I've used 6 mo old mixes. However I store in a dark cabinet - light will fade some dyes.

   The plastic soda bottles I thought was a good idea. Minimize air in the container.

   Again, most manufacturesproviders will or should recommend distilled water.

   Biggest piece of advise however obvious - experiment. dyes are a blast to use

   Oh, don't rule out spraying to apply. I recall creating a gorgous sunburst effect on a table with a dry ragging technique.

   Be creative.

   Glen

1. 
   bobbronner | Apr 27, 2010 08:22pm | #8

   I've used TransTints as well as lockwood dyes.... Both are pretty easy to use. Like you, I generally use Transtints to color shellac, but have recently been using them to tint water based lacquer and poly from Target Coatings (great stuff btw)

   Lockwood dyes are supposed to be mixed according to weight, but so far I've only mixed up the standard strength batch from samples like you.  I will say that they have been really nice to spray. Wiping (at least for me) has been a challenge. I've been getting lap marks even when I move very quickly. 

   If you have a HVLP gun, try spraying these dyes, I think you'll like it!

4. 
   wisno | May 01, 2010 07:03pm | #9

   Yes dye stain is an organic pigment. You can make a bright color by this pigment.

   Yes you better make it in the concentrate solution befor do your mixing color. The liquid form is easier to be handled and viewed.

   To make your stain color you can use the priciple of color wheel (triangle color) theory.

5. 
   dmdnk | May 19, 2010 03:43am | #10

   Dyes

   Joe,

   I have a lot of experience with dyes and may be able to help with some of your questions.

   1. There is no rule of thumb for how much coverage you will get.  With practice you will get a feel for how much to mix.  Alot will depend on your method of application, the shape of the pieces you are dyeing, orientation of the surface, etc.

   2. If you're not sure of the color or intensity, after doing the math, mix only a portion of the packet to it's full concentration for testing.  A scale is helpful for mixing small amounts, but if you are careful you can mix the dyes by volume and get good results-

   3. Expect the dyes to change color on the shelf.  They may last...or may not.  Try to mix only what you need.  Better yet- try to mix less than you think you need.  If you run out, you'll at least have some idea of how much more to mix! 

   4. I have stored dyes (because I mixed too much) in plastic containers with good results for up to a few months.  I've mostly used Moser's dyes and they do seem to last a while.  If the dyes do change color, I use them to tint other dyes.  I avoid metal because of the water and glass because I'm clumsy.

   5. I've never had a problem with cold water.

   6. I wouldn't plan on long term storage, but cleaner water probably wouldn't hurt.

   David 

        

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | May 19, 2010 08:46am | #11

   Many thanks

   Thanks to David and the other posters.  Due to having to earn my bread doing other things, the first of the projects to be dyed is just coming up within the next three or four weeks.  I'll be testing and experimenting before that, you may be sure.