Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Sep 03, 2005 10:10pm | #1

       Hi 12 ,

                 The bleed back you speak of is typically caused from the stain , the good old Watco Danish oil formulas were the worst I ever experienced on Oak . The top coats and sealers to my knowledge do not cause bleed back . There are many brands of stains available my favorite for the very reason you speak of is a brand called Old Masters , it is very forgiving and has no bleed back characteristics and when you stop then start again it does not leave an uneven area .

                 good   luck             dusty

1. 
   twelvegates | Sep 03, 2005 11:09pm | #2

   Thanks -- I appreciate the quicky reply.  I have soooooo much to learn!

1. 
   twelvegates | Sep 04, 2005 04:58am | #3

   By the way -- would that be the Old Masters penetrating stain, the wiping stain, the gel stain or the acrylic stain?

1. 
   YesIWood | Sep 04, 2005 07:49am | #4

   12,

     There is always so much to learn....  I use General Finishes here in Wisconsin.  They are sold via WoodCraft and here is there link: http://www.generalfinishes.com/.  I'm not sure where you are located (you may want to fill out your profile).  You can e-mail there staff and they will get right back with you.  Good line of products. 

     I use the GF (general finishes) oil stain and the GF Arm-R-Seal  Urethane Topcoat.  Once the stain is applied and wait a day for if to set up, then I cut the Arm-a Seal urethane with about 25% mineral spirits (to make a spit coat, also called a seal coat).  Once this coat has set up, a light sanding (as I do between each coat 1000 grit sanding pad) and then full strength.  This is a "wiping urethane", which, means you wipe it on and that's it.  Don't over work it.  I use an old t-shirt or "Viva" paper towels.  After about 4 coats it really looks great.

   CAUTION: Read label concerning disposal of used towels....  Let them completely dry before disgarding them, may cause fires.

   I mainly build with Red Oak, Mission style and I use the Antique Cherry stain.  Joe

   Is it really saw dust or wood dust?

2. 
   notDusty | Sep 04, 2005 09:25am | #5

         twelvegates ,

                            Not the gel stain for sure , I think it is the regular wiping stains.

                                             dusty    

2. 
   TomT226 | Sep 04, 2005 03:27pm | #6

   I use a lot of Minwax and Sherwin Williams stains (oil based), and get some bleedback all the time, but it's no problem.  After you've applied the stain, get some foam brushes and paper towels, and wipe most the excess away and even the appearance, drying your brush frequently on a towel.  After it's dried for an hour, go back with some paper towels and wipe away any bleed.  Dampen (slightly) some towels with some mineral spirits and even out areas that mayybe thicker.  Let it dry for at least 24 hours, and go back with a mineral spirits dampened towel, and wipe any bleed.  Steel wool or Scotchbrite (grey) will take off small bleed areas too.

3. 
   Kevin | Sep 04, 2005 09:19pm | #7

   I'll basically ditto what Dusty said. Oil stains are the prime culprits in this case. Going with just about any other kind of stain (water-based, solvent-based, gel) should mitigate the problem.

   I personally prefer M.L. Campbell's solvent-based stains on any species of wood. But, even though it was a lot more work, I have had good success with gel stain on Oak. I think the brand was Jel'd or something like that. Someone else specified it for a particular job and I had little choice but to use it. Turned out beautifully with zero bleed-out. It's in a Mormon visitor center somewhere in Arizona.

1. 
   twelvegates | Sep 05, 2005 04:25am | #8

   I appreciate all of your help very much. Hopefully will have much success this time, thanks to you!