Replies

1. 
   Jed_C. | Jan 31, 2000 09:45pm | #1

   *
   I've made a number of the shapes you're talking about, which--if I understand you correctly--are actually hollow-core, truncated pyramids. They are not difficult to make, but every one is different. You just have to figure playing around with some scraps as part of the necessary process of setting up your compound miters correctly. I always cut mine on the tablesaw, using a tapering jig to cut the blank sides first, then setting up the blade for a bevel cut and sending each edge through at that setting.

   I've also made a number of obelisks (four-sided tapered shapes that always terminate in a pyramid top) of solid lumber. These are by far more complicated and more time-consuming to make. I never made more than one of the same size and shape--if you wanted to go into production to reproduce them, I'm sure you could make jigs that would save you time and trouble.

1. 
   AD | Jul 01, 2000 06:55pm | #2

   *ADTHE LEAST EXPENSIVE WAY TO GET THE ANGLES RIGHT BEFORE SPENDING BIG $ IS TO USE SCRAP PINE (FROM CONSTRUCTION SITE) AND SCALE THE PROJECT DOWN. IT TAKES A LITTLE MORE TIME TO DO BY TRIAL AND ERROR BUT SAVES $ AND FRUSTRATION IN THE END. ALSO I AGREE WITH JED C. THAT JIGS WOULD BE THE WAY TO GO BUT WOULD ADD THAT A SCALED DRAWING WITH ANGLES BE SAVED FOR FUTURE REFERENCE IF YOU PLAN TO GO INTO PRODUCTION. HOPE THIS HELPS.

1. 
   Brett_Netherton | Oct 05, 2000 06:59pm | #3

   *I've been developing my own obelisk shapes - hexagonal, in this case. I find the easiest method is to draw up fairly accurate plans, then cut just a small segment in scrap wood. For example, if the obelisk stands 30cm high, I just cut two sides, about 10cm deep. This helps determine the angles for the compound cut. From this, I then also develop the clamping structure - usually making another larger hexagon of solid wood to fit over the plywood obelisk. I tape the obelisk with masking tape, ensuring that all parts are correctly aligned before applying glue. The clamp is then slipped over the obelisk, and tightened down using ropes which I twist. Sure, it's all a bit hit-and-miss, but you don't have to spend too long on the test pieces to get accurate measurements. Good luck.

1. 
   Greg_Brown | Feb 18, 2001 04:41pm | #4

   *hey folks,"Obelisk " is a new word for me- looked it up, kinda describes a carving I never finished- is this an obelisk? cool word either way. I was gonna finish the base out as 4 feet & call it "walking in circles" gb

1. 
   Mike_Maines | Feb 20, 2001 06:31am | #5

   *Greg, your sculpture is what you'd get if you cut out the four pieces for an obelisk, flipped 2 upside down, then glued the thing up. If your sculpture had solid faces, that is. Your sculpture looks pretty cool, though. MM

2. 
   Stanley_Niemiec | Feb 20, 2001 08:30am | #6

   *The obelisk has top angles and tapered sides. I would cut the top angles first. And then since all lamps have to be center bored (I do mine on a lathe -- see http://niemiecstudios.com ) I would next do the center boring. From there, you have a referenced center and can create a fixture to align and hold the workpiece for sawing using something akin to a taper jig. The other option would be some sort of fixture that would allow you to run a wide planer bit with a router, again using the center hole as your reference.The only difficulty I see in the process is getting a tool that will bore a true straight hole down the length of the column. HOw many gazillion of these are you going to make?

3. 
   Greg_Brown | Feb 22, 2001 10:30am | #7

   *MM-thanks, when I was doing that piece it started out having solid sides- I modeled it after a sculpture that was displayed on Led Zepplin's "Presence" album. After I had the solid shape almost done I started thinking about carving the inside. That one inspired this spinning christmas tree I made for mom a couple yrs ago..gb