Recently finished a Dutch tool chest from Megan Fitzpatrick’s article (I made mine from Poplar) and coated it with odie’s oil instead of going the milk paint route… Unfortunately I’m not overly fond of how contrasty the grain is looking on the finished product.
I’m wondering if anyone has experience using old fashioned brand milk paint over an oil finish or if I’ll need to scuff sand it first? Current plan is wait a week or so, that way I can run a trial on a small piece of scrap from the project and try it that way… either way, any input would be appreciated.
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Old Fashioned milk paint has a customer service phone number (435) 255-4556. If you don't get any responses here, you might try giving them a call and see if they can advise you on what you're planning. Odie's oil, according to their website, contains a proprietary blend of oils and wax with no driers. Good luck.
thanks Jim, I'll give 'em a call
Real Milk Paint Co sells an additive that helps with bonding to surfaces that have already been finished.
I think that if you try this, you are definitely better off doing some sanding first.
If it were me, I would finish about 3 feet of poplar with the Odie's same as the chest. Wait however long you need to, and try the milk paint on half. Sand the other half and try the milk paint on that. I'd put more oil on top of 2 coats of paint. I wouldn't use Odie's oil, personally.
thanks John, good idea. And in the past I've used BLO on top of the milk paint and been quite happy with the result
On a scrap piece of wood, apply the same amount or strength of Odie's oil that you did on the chest. Let it dry a couple of weeks, then apply some de-waxed shellac as a sealer, then the milk paint. I've used Old Fashioned Milk Paint for years on raw wood and with shellac as a sealer first before the milk paint. Pigments and linseed oil have been used since the 18th century for not only decoration but as a primary coat as well. Any oil does take some time to dry.
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