Srpingboarding from the excellent discussion on wipe-on poly–
I want to finish vertical grain Douglas fir with an oil-based polyurethane that will give the wood a warm tone. Any recommendations?
Or should I be looking at a regular brushing varnish?
(Background: I have tried water-based polyurethane and it is too cold. I tried Cloverdale Paints’ oil-based “Liquid Plastic” and it has a murky look. I also tried Mohawk’s traditional brushing varnish and it had the deep, warm look I liked, but it seems to have been discontinued this year.)
Thanks,
Jim
Replies
A non-poly varnish will always give a nicer, clearer finish. Poly will almost always have a hazy look to it.
Depending on the color you want, non-poly varnishes run from the very light amber Pratt & Lambert #38 to the quite dark amber Waterlox Original with a number of others in the middle somewhere.
As always, test out you plans on scrap material from your project. Don't let your project be you learning curve. No tears.
I have used Minwax oilbased poly on vertical doug grain fir and it warms it up also this wood will get more amber colored with age. You might also consider a coat of amber shellac first.
Troy
Good suggestion. I did try "amber" shellac. Acutally, it was buttonlac when I used poly on Big Leaf Maple last week, and it did give a nice warm undertone--but it also showed my mediocre brush work on the frame and panel doors.
we won't talk about my brush skills:) Troy
If your final finish is to be semi-gloss, do the first coats with gloss to preserve the clear depth of finish; only the final coat should be semi-gloss, or rubbed with 0000 steel wool to knock down the gloss a little.
Jim,
I am a convert to water based systems, in particular, Target water based coatings. Try their WR clear stain base followed by their WB Ultra Seal shellac topped with EM 8000 cv conversion varnish. I am not affiliated with Target, just love their products. About the only solvent based products I will use any more will be BLO, and alcohol shellac.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
I'm not sure this addresses your question about a PROTECTIVE finish for Douglas fir but I have gotten a warm and beautiful finish my sanding up to and beyond 600 grit. The third to last grit is sanded cross grain; the last two are sanded with the grain. The result shimmers and feels welcoming, genuinely delightful.
You didn't mention the item you are finishing. Must it have a protective finish?
Thanks for your engaging question
drf3
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