I made the table in the feature by Christian Becksvoort and tried to use his finish. I applied straight danish oil for the first coat. The second coat is 2/3 tried and true varnish oil plus 1/3 epifanes spar varnish. It went on very heavy and after 48 hrs was still gooey. I removed it with mineral spirits and tried to dilute it with 50/50 mineral spirits and it still came up tacky in spots. In Christian’s article on the finish he has you apply 2/3 oil varnish mixed with 1/3 spar varnish with a 48 hr dry time twice. Its just not working-how come?
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Please excuse my chiming in, but I had a similar experience this winter. My suggestion is to apply the 2/3-1/3 mix VERY sparingly as well as thoroughly wipe dry after a few minutes.
My first attempt was using unthinned Tried & True Varnish, and it just never dried. Eventually the maker called me, and his application advice for his unthinned varnish was to put just a few drops on the applicator cloth and then rub and rub over the wood to wring out every bit of the varnish from the cloth before adding another few drops and repeating.
My suggestion for the 2/3-1/3 blend is that the applicator cloth should be moist but not dripping with the mix, and rub somewhat forcefully to spread. I kept the thermostat at 75 round the clock, and some spots still took 4-5 days to dry.
It's not working because that combination will NEVER dry. Use what most pros use; 1/3 blo, 1/3 polyurethane varnish (or spar varnish), and 1/3 mineral spirits OR turpentine--your choice. Flood the surface, let it sit 20 - 30 minutes, re-applying when it looks dull in spots, wipe off COMPLETELY and let it dry 1 or 2 days depending on weather conditions. Be sure to wipe off spots where it bleeds out in the first few minutes after wiping dry. Subsequent coats may be applied with 320 or 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Apply as many coats as you want to get the look you want. If you want a higher gloss in a bigger hurry, wipe on a coat or two of wipe-on polyurethane after rubbing down the last coat with 0000 steel wool and tacking off. The key to any finishing method is to first try it on scrap, and to let each coat dry--not to a printed schedule, but to the actual conditions in YOUR shop space.
Steve
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