Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Jun 19, 2006 04:58am | #1

   Gone thinking,

   Most oil finishes are easy to renew. That is part of their universal appeal.

   Concerning Tried and True; It's called a "true oil" because it has no metallic driers  or synthetic resins.  It's linseed oil that has gone through various stages of polymerization. That basically means the oxidation process, which turns a liquid to a solid, has been accelerated  Remember, linseed oil cures by oxidation not evaporation.

   They also state a formula for a varnish oil containing rosin. Rosin is nothing more than than leftover solids after pine sap has been distilled into turpentine.  It may sound romantic that this is a nineteenth century formula  though rosin, as an additive, does little if anything to strengthen the linseed oil finish.

   They also state that their original wood finish " can be applied to revive any existing finish"

   I disagree with that statement. One of the first " polishes " I learned was the 5050 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. This is the WORST thing you could use on a finish ( unless of course it was a linseed oil finish). I would never put an oil that oxidizes over a lacquer,shellac or varnish finish. Remeber it takes a great deal of time to cure. While it is doing so it will trap dirt onto the surface. and become irreversible Conservators and restorers alike face this surface problem constantly.

   Mr. Becksvoort likes and recommends this finish. It works for him and he likes the results he gets. That makes it the right finish for him

   If you want try a polymerized linseed oil in a small quantity, go to a good art supply store and get a bottle of Stand Oil. You can see if you like it.

   Minwax Antique oil is really a varnish because it contains a small amount of resin that will help give it a slight surface build. Liberon Finishing oil is also a very good product that for some reason was not included in Minicks article.

   Any of these oils discussed can be renewed as required. Follow the directions on the can and be careful with your oily rags.

   Good luck,

   Peter Gedrys

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   gonethinking2 | Jun 19, 2006 05:42am | #2

   PeterThanks for your response. Any thoughts relative to the Wipe-on Minwax Poly - it seems that this is a finish that has the look of an oil finish with the protection (or some of the protection) of a poly varnish finish. It also seems that it would be somewhat repairable as it is not as much a "built up surface" finish.Again - thx for the response.Bill FlemingBill Fleming
   [email protected]

1. 
   peter28 | Jun 21, 2006 07:24pm | #3

   Bill,

   The wipe on poly will give you some added protection. It will add a surface build oil alone will not. That is when it stops looking like a true oil finish also.

   The coating will be relatively thin by nature.  This should assist you if you need to repair it.

   As long as the coating remains sound and you want to refresh it, I would consider a coat of wax or a polish. The automotive polishes work well for this. Remember, you're not adding to the surface coat by doing this, just putting her makeup on.

   This will brighten the surface without having to reapply the poly. If you desire to reapply the poly, scuff it well with 320 and a maroon ( medium) or grey (fine) scotch pad. Clean all the dust from the surface and proceed .

   Peter Gedrys