Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Aug 09, 2005 06:18pm | #1

   There's a spray on spot remover for fabric called K2R that contains a solvent and powdered silica.  I've bought it at both supermarkets and hardware stores.  The solvent thins out the oil and the silica then wicks it out of the wood.  Once it is dried, you sweep away the silica and most of the oil.  By repeating the process several times you should be able to pick up maybe 90% of the oil.

   The remaining oil in the wood will probably still show as a darker area but should disappear if you apply some type of oil finish to the top. 

   John W.

2. 
   Crunk | Aug 09, 2005 07:26pm | #2

   As has been said you won't get it all and what's left might show through whatever finish you had planned. 

   You might want to anticipate the worst and start looking for replacement veneer.

   The K2R solution sounds as good as any.

   BTW, how thick is the veneer?

1. 
   padlock | Aug 09, 2005 11:19pm | #4

   I can't say for sure, as I didn't build the desk. But I'm sure there is
   not much left, especially near the edge, where the oil is. I started
   taking off the old finish with a sander before I realized it was a veneer. I may try the iron and paper towels first. Thanks for the input.

3. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 09, 2005 08:50pm | #3

   Hot clothes iron, paper towels, blot up the oil.

   Monitor carefully: if installed with hide glue, glue will melt & veneer will detach.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

   
   

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   Edited 8/9/2005 2:15 pm ET by jazzdogg

4. 
   Telemike | Aug 10, 2005 07:42am | #5

   Massage oil, huh? Perhaps you could elaborate on how it got there.

5. 
   jackplane | Aug 11, 2005 10:34pm | #6

   If you're going to re-finish the veneer, I wouldn't worry. Massage oils are just mineral oil primarily.

   You could tape over it for now so it won't attract any dirt/dust and stain it or add massage oil to the whole veneer later.

    The problem with introducing silica is that unless its completely removed, it will refract light leaving less than glossy appearance, changing the sheen level of your topcoat.

   
   

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   Edited 8/11/2005 3:37 pm ET by jackplane

6. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 12, 2005 08:51pm | #7

   To make a long story short, some massage oil got onto the bare veneer.

   THAT WAS SO FUNNY.. What ya doin' in that woodshop?

1. 
   padlock | Aug 12, 2005 11:04pm | #9

   As I said, it is a loooooong story, and it's really not that interesting. So I think it will be more fun for everyone if each of you
   imagines your own scenario. Though, this is probably not the place to post those scenarios. Thanks for all the input.

1. 
   BG | Aug 12, 2005 11:21pm | #10

   padlock,
   I'm hesitant to suggest solutions because most I have not tried and I'm not sure if the cure is worse. Some ideas include Whiting and EZ-off oven cleaner. Haley's Hints suggest a cocktail of Mineral Spitits, White Vinegar and Ammonia or dish deterrgent (I think) i used it 6 months ago annd it worked like a charm on maple timbers that had machine oil on them for some time....of course I put away the rescipe for further use and cannot find it now..sigh!

7. 
   Kevin | Aug 12, 2005 09:42pm | #8

   VN&P Naptha would be best. But, Mineral Spirits should work too since it is in Naptha family of solvents. Napthas are used very widely as a wax and grease/oil remover in autobody shops.

   Being that the message oil is in wood it will be harder to deal with than what the bodyshops have to cope with. But, I would think that using lots of clean dry rags to soak it up, and using repeat applications, it should remove most of it. I would guess it'd be somewhere around the 90% figure being mentioned by others here. Maybe more since you say that the veneer is thin.

   One big advantage of using Naptha is that it won't harm  or otherwise soften wood glue. Contact adhesive is another matter entirely. Naptha attacks contact adhesives very aggresively. But, I doubt your Walnut veneer was applied with contact adhesive.

   I wouldn't just leave the message oil, personally. My understanding is that mineral oils don't dry and that could be a problem if you're planning on putting a drying finish on. At best you'd have poor adhesion in that area. At worst it might prevent your finish from curing properly and lead to it failing sometime down the road.