Hi there,
I’m finishing a solid wenge table at the moment. I’ve started using Tried and True varnish. I like the product and have used the Danish oil before. My problem is I think the sheen of the varnish is too much. I’m wondering if I can do two coats of varnish and final coat with oil? Or do I have to mix the oil and varnish together?
Thanks
Replies
Oil and varnish
If I understand the chemistry right, using oil over varnish would not be a good idea. I have never tried it, but my guess is that the oil will not stick to the varnish (few things do), and it will rub off on everything and anything.
if the sheen is too shiny from the varnish, abrading the varnish would probably be the best and simplest way to fix it. Scrubbie pads (Scotchbrite) or fine sandpaper should work. Experiment on scrap to get the sheen right.
A test piece is definitely the best way to go. After going to the website and reading the directions way more carefully I've found out the product is an oil varnish. You can use Danish oil to thin it, but it doesn't say anything about sheen or strength of finish after thinning. The product itself is very easy to use. I'll just have to play with it some more to achive the finish I want. Thanks for the advice.
Sheen
Don't put oil over cured varnish - the best way to flatten a finish is rubbing or sanding it. A 1200 paper or 4-0 steel wool should get you there and smooth the surface at the same time. When I don't want to rub out I use a satin or flat finish for the last coat to dull down the overall sheen. I use lacquers and the manufacturers make flattening agents for that purpose. I'm not sure if there is something made to dull varnishes but I've read that a talc or silica can be added to varnish if the manufacturer doesn't provide a flat enough sheen or a product that can do that. Experiment before recoating your project.
SA
Oil on varnish
A good rule to follow is never use oil on top of varnish, whether poly or old style alkyd based varnish, but it is OK to use varnish over oils (tung or linseed oil base). Most of your varnishes merely form a film on the surface of the wood, and dry from the surface down. That film surface is what prevents the oil from penetrating. Oil penetrate the wood slighty deeper and dries in the opposite way, and oils take longer to dry, expecially with high humidity and cool temperatures. Also a coat of oil is desired in many cases where figured wood is being used because the oil will "pop" the figure in such woods as curly or tiger maple or other woods with that figure. Larry
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