I built a dolls closet with a Watco danish oil finish. I read somewhere that oils may leave a long lasting smell in some items. If this is true any advise to avoid my daughters doll clothes smelling???
Thanks
I built a dolls closet with a Watco danish oil finish. I read somewhere that oils may leave a long lasting smell in some items. If this is true any advise to avoid my daughters doll clothes smelling???
Thanks
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Replies
Yes, it's true. You might be able to minimize the problem by coating all of the inside suraces with shellac.
-Steve
What Steve said. First (and last) time I made that mistake, I was looking everywhere for the dirty diaper. ;-(
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Do you think going over the oil with a wipe on poly will seal the smell? Is shellac as easy to use as a wipe on poly?
Thanks All
Shellac is very easy to apply. But an important, yeah even crucial, point about the process -- the Watco must be cured before you put the topcoat on, for it to do what you want.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
As FG says, shellac is easy -- even easier than poly, but alcohol-based, so you need to have some on hand for cleanup. It dries very quickly too, so you can do multiple coats in a short time.
Also as FG says, the Watco needs to be dry first, but 72 hrs has always worked for me.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Mike, has that 72-hour cure-time worked on both open- and closed-pore woods? I've mainly finished red oak with Watcdo (wet-sand application) and it has taken longer than 72 hours for me to feel confident it was cured [might be the downside of having a good sniffer]. When I fiinish an open-pored wood like that, I do it in the house, where it's warmer and I don't have to worry about the pores weeping with an upward temp change later.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/9/2009 12:33 am by forestgirl
Yep -- For exapmple, I just finished up 200 bf of red oak trim. Clear Watco, 3 days, then wipe-on poly. My standard procedure. Same deal on cherry or maple. I've also topcoated with shellac and sprayed-on catalized cabinet finishes. Never had any problems with it. The only time I allow more drying time for the Watco is if it's cold or damp where the wood is drying.
(Of course, there's always next time. LOL!)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
"The only time I allow more drying time for the Watco is if it's cold or damp where the wood is drying." Yep, that's for sure. One only needs to go through that "weeping" scenario or the "won't cure" once in life, eh? What a painforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"What a pain"
I suppose, but that's why I keep My Lovely Assistant around! She has endless patience for sanding and (re)finishing. ;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Lucky dog, aren'tcha?!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"Lucky" ain't the word! ;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
An oil based poly [varnish] can create the same lingering odor problems as the oil finish in the first place. Shellac is best for sealing in odors.
In general the only things that should be used of case good interiors is: nothing, shellac, or waterborne acyrlic finishes.
I built a couple of nightstands about 25 years ago and finished them inside and out with Formby's tung oil finish. I can still smell the oil inside - getting better though, it might be completely gone in another 25 years. ;-)
"In general the only things that should be used of case good interiors is: nothing, shellac, or waterborne acyrlic finishes"
Steve, you might have mentioned that any of the nitrocellulose family of finishes, such as nitrocellulose itself, pre-catalysed lacquer or acid catalysed lacquer are also suitable for the inside of enclosed cabinets. We've been doing it in professional workshops for many years, decades even, without odour problems.
I do concede that you need a spray gun and, ideally, a spray booth, which makes this family of finishes a less attractive option for ocassional woodworkers. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
I agree, the NC finishes should be added to my list.
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