Replies

1. 
   roc | Jun 08, 2009 01:53am | #1

   Zabo,

   I would experiment on scraps of your particular wood in the temperature that it is to be applied to determine the longest time you can leave it.

   Go long enough that it starts to get too tacky to wipe off, fifteen minutes ( ? ), half an hour ( ? ), then on the actual project don't leave it that long. The longer you leave it the better penetration.

   Mostly I have experience with the Maloof mix. No MS. Others can tell you better than I but it might be a good idea to go with less MS than one third so more finish in applied in fewer applications.

   For our edification what kind of wood ( s ) are you applying it to ?

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 08, 2009 03:50am | #2

   Overnight is generally good between coats. 

   More time before wiping off the application means more penetration, as long as the finish hasn't started to get tacky.  You need to beat that point because fullly removing excess from the surface is more important differences in penetration. 

1. 
   Zabo2 | Jun 08, 2009 04:53am | #3

   I am currently using it on catapla which has a beautiful buttery brown grain with a lot of shimmer in it. The mixture is doing a wonderful job of bringing out the natural beauty of the wood. I want to build up a deep satin luster without the finish becoming gummy or sticky which is my main concern and why I'm asking about drying time between coats.

   ZABO

    

   Edited 6/7/2009 9:54 pm ET by Zabo2

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 08, 2009 05:04am | #4

   Oil/varnish mixes are for an "in-the-wood" look.  Satin, but not deep.  The material can never be allowed to build a film on the surface because no matter how low cured it will always be soft.  You could add a few coats of a wiping varnish to add some depth and sheen.  If you keep it thin, you won't get any sort of plasticky look. 

1. 
   Zabo2 | Jun 08, 2009 05:57pm | #5

   So Steve I'm a little confused. Are you saying I should not use more than one or two coats? The in the wood look is what I want and the silky feel of an oil. I'm using this on a little box. I was thinking of topping it with a wiping polly however I definitely don't want a plastic look.

   ZABO

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 08, 2009 06:06pm | #6

   If you are going to top coat with varnish, then all you need of the oil or oil/varnish is one coat.  If you want to stay with an "in-the-wood" look, then you probably get an even satin sheen after 2 or 3 coats, though it depends on the wood and how you apply it. 

   If you use the varnish, then you are moving away from the in-the-wood look to a film finish, and that can look plasticky if it gets very thick at all.  You didn't mention what the finish is for--whether it needs lots of protection or not.  Only if you need lots of protection--like something that will be regularly cleaned, or walked on, etc. needs "lots" of protection, but it is a judgement call. 

   Edited 6/8/2009 11:08 am ET by SteveSchoene

3. 
   Zabo2 | Jun 08, 2009 06:28pm | #7

   It's a small keep-sake box.  I don't think it needs a lot of protection. I've built a few of these small boxes and have been using shellac with a top coat of polly, wiped out with steel wool and wax. Which is quite nice but I'm looking for something different so I think I'll stick with the oil and varnish. Two coats so far. I think I'll apply one more and stop. Thanks for the info.

   ZABO