Thank you very much, in advance, for any help you can offer.
I am thinking about trying Andy Rae’s recipe for a smooth, hand applied finish from his video “A Durable Wipe-On Topcoat”. This would be for a couple of projects including a walnut/padouck coffee table and (possibly) some hickory walking canes.
I have a couple of questions about mixing and using a finish of this type:
1. For the varnish component, can I use any oil-based quick-dry varnish, including polyurethane?
2. One of the two Benjamin Moore products that he recommends is either no longer available or had a name change (i.e. they have a “Wood Grain Filler” but not a “Wood Paste Filler”). As far as you know, does the newer product have the correct characteristics to mix this kind of finish? If not, can another product be substituted to give me the same result?
3. I have not used my Linseed Oil in about four years. Does it ever go bad or can I use it regardless of age?
Replies
I also have a question about that finish, my question is more along the lines of durability. How durable would this topcoat be on a coffee table with about 5 or so coats of shellac under it? lets say 2-3 coats of the top coat?
When you seal the wood with shellac and plan on topcoating, do the opposite.
Use the shellac to seal the wood and give yourself a platform for the varnish.
A couple of coats of shellac followed by a sanding with 2 or 320 as required will give you a good surface to finish.
Peter
With all due respect to Andy, I know he is a very talented man.
I would never put a paste filler in my topcoat. Finishing invites experimentation and many enjoy coming up with their own recipes.
When I use paste filler, I use it for what it's designed for; filling the pores and prior to finish coats.
That said,
As long as the paste filler you want to use is oil based, any other oil based product will be compatible.
I would strongly suggest you try some samples prior to finishing your table if you plan on this method. This will take some time so plan on it. You could end up with a muddy mess.
Your walnut table would react nicely to a thin application of linseed oil to add a little color, followed by a varnish.
As long as your oil has not oxidised in the can you should be OK
Some good choices for a topcoat would include (and not limited) to
Waterlox, original (soft sheen and light build), satin and gloss.
Rockhard varnish (Behlens) this is a brushing varnish that can be thinned for wiping as desired.
In my opinion, keep it simple.
Peter
Thanks very much, Peter. Very helpful and much appreciated!
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