I’ve noticed a small cult following on the use of “Tried and True Oil Varnish”. Can someone explain the advantages or differences over Tung Oil? Such as ease of application, durability, hardness and sheen.
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Replies
I've been using it for about a year and really like the clean up. Only soap and water. The Danish oil gives a nice look followed by 5 or 6 coats of their Varnish or Linseed Oil depending on the look you want. 1 or more of the FWW writers are using it. Check out their website.
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/
Joe,
There's been a lot of discussion here. More negative than positive. Some (like me) have found that the stuff polymerizes about as slow as raw linseed oil. Rags that I used to apply it stayed wet and soft for months.
I've gone through several cans of it trying to get it to work. It doesn't work for me. I gave up on it. It's advantages are dubious. It's touted as non toxic, but truth is, when cured, any finish is non-toxic. Yes, it's nice to be able to clean up with soap and water.
I use Tung oil and tung oil/varnish mixtures all the time, so I'm no stranger to this style of finish. Good luck with it if you decide to use it.
R
Rich,
I've never had any problems. The key is to apply very very thin coats. My rags are dried in a few hours but if you put on thick coats then it's possible to have problems. Chris Beckvsvoort of FWW is the one that got me interested in it. But your right about many problems reported. I believe it's because thick coats are applied. But if it doesn't work for you then don't use it.
Lar
I'm with Rich on ths. I tried it, and to get it on thin enough raises quite a sweat, which I don't think is worth it. Miss by a bit on the heavy side and you are weeks from your next coat. I'm still playing with varnish oil mixtures, but the advice here about mix it and pitch it after 1 to 2 weeks seems right. I know that an open quart of minwax poly-oil is quite different than when newly opened.
Someone mentioned that you can use porpane from a plumbers bottle ( 12" high, 3 1/2" dia., don't know its right name) to act like the sort of spendy "Bloxygen" or what ever its name is, but that I have not yet tried.
I've heard that before, but I've never had any problems. If I do accidentally get it on alittle thicker I just wipe it off, twice. No sweat putting it on, it's rubbing it off. It's actually a good workout. But if you don't like it, then use one of your favorites. I read of a few folks who really liked it, so I thought to give it a try. One or two coats Danish Oil wiping off 15 minutes after it's on. Then one coat of Varnish or Linseed wiping off in 45 - 60 minutes. Next day, next coat. No problems.
Lar
Lar,
The failures with "Tried & True" have nothing to do with failures to apply it in thin coats, believe me. We thrased this one to death many times here. I went through several different cans of the stuff. If anything (because of the problems I was encountering) I rubbed the surface down to the thinnest applied amount anyone has EVER done. No dice. It acted as though it was raw Linseed oil.
"Boiled" Linseed Oil and partially polymerized Tung oil start polymerizing within hours of application and continue to harden rapidly. EVERY application of Tried and True, and the rags I applied it with remained wet and soft for weeks. (The rags remained wet for months).
Rich
Rich,
Strange, I've never had the problem of rags staying wet. The only problem I've had with the stuff is it does not get the cherry wood dark enough for my liking. But the folks that end up with the pieces really like the look so I stick with it. Too bad Chris Becksvoort from FWW doesn't chime in here with his thoughts. I wonder if he too has had the problems you describe. I have been reading that several folks do have problems. I always thought it was due to their applying it too thick and/or not rubbing it out well enough.
Anyway, I've had good luck with it so I'll stick with it as long as I get requests for it.
Lar
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