Replies

1. 
   DonC | Dec 16, 2006 02:07am | #1

   You seem to be doing all that can be done correctly. I can only suggest to try using acetone. Acetone is a powerful and fast evaporating solvent. Wear fubber gloves and solvent blocking face mask. I have had good results using it on rosewood when gluing and finishing.

1. 
   vrap | Dec 16, 2006 05:04am | #2

   Thanks DonC.  I'll give that one a go.  What do you think about soaking it rather than wiping it on?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 16, 2006 05:37am | #3

   I'd wipe only.  You are in a race to get your glue set before the oils which have been removed are replaced from deeper in the wood. Too much solvent and you just activate deeper oils, starting them to the surface.   

   One thought just occurred--is there a chance that the vacuum press accentuates the process of pulling oil out from the wood.  My limited experience with real ebony used in inlays didn't experience problems gluing thick veneer with hot hide glue or finishing with shellac, but I would hesitate to generalize from that.  My ebony didin't seem particularly oily either. 

   Edited 12/15/2006 9:42 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   vrap | Dec 17, 2006 03:48am | #5

   I have macassar commercial veneer (1/42") and I use a liqued cold press veneer glue. Glad to hear that not all ebony is a problem but I'm sure having a problem.  Where is gaboon ebony veneer available?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 17, 2006 11:22am | #6

   I cut my veneer from solid wood--just under 1/16th--from a small piece of ebony that I picked up somewhere

2. 
   EarlKelly | Dec 16, 2006 04:11pm | #4

   What type of Ebony? Macassar, or Gaboon? Also what glue did you use?

   I've glued up several hundred ft of Macassar with zero problems using a vacum press. I never wipe the veneer and use Unibond 800. This is with commercial cut veneer, but,if you're using shop sawn that may be totally different.

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