Replies

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Jan 29, 2004 07:02pm | #1

   It depends on what type of cabinets you want.  Face frame, euro?  Melamine/ Plywood casework? Will they have finished ends? 

   Once you have this figured out, choose the best joinery for your abilities.  All that really matters is that the finished product looks good and functions well and doesn't fall apart under normal usage. 

   Dado, dowel, biscuits, confirmat screw?

2. 
   mlbfreestyle | Jan 29, 2004 07:48pm | #2

   I would recommend a book by Jim Tolpin on "Designing and building kitchen cabinets"? (not sure of the title).  Available from Taunton.  IMO this is a very good book that will lead you through the options you are questioning and then how to do it.

   When I build my kitchen cabinets; I will probably assemble the carcasses using router-cut dadoes.  Material will be high-grade plywood.  The face-frames will be biscuit-joined and then finish nailed to the carcasses.  They will be painted poplar, thus a few nail holes will be no problem.  If the frames were clear finished wood, then I might lean toward pocket-hole screws to attach to the carcasses.

   The doors will probably be full-inset attached with a traditional face or butt-mount hinge.

3. 
   BG | Jan 29, 2004 08:37pm | #3

   Beck,

   If possible, I'd look at replacing one section at a time.  This would allow you to accurately size everything...deal with the space issues in your shop...and make a few mistakes along the way.  With any luck, the removal of a few screws and lifing the counter top should allow you slip out a unit at a time....
4. 
   woodonline | Jan 30, 2004 01:29am | #4

   I would recommend Danny Proulx's books....very straight forward, easy to read, all the tips you need on doors, drawers, sizing, and simple construction. His web site is.... http://www.cabinetmaking.com/

5. 
   WayneL5 | Jan 30, 2004 03:20am | #5

   Your right, buy a book.  What did you expect us to say?

   Anyway, Jim Tolpin's book is really good.  One of the most basic ways is to make carcasses of 3/4" veneer plywood.  No dadoes needed.  For the fronts, face frames are not too hard to make.  Pocket screws are an excellent way to assemble them, really easy and pleanty strong.  For doors, overlay or partial overlay doors are much easier than inset doors, because they are more forgiving on sizing and alignment.

   I can answer the Teflon question, too, if you like.

1. 
   Sancho | Jan 30, 2004 06:58am | #6

   I agree with woodonline, Danny Proulx books are very good and his website is good to. he will answer any question you have .

   I also like paul levines book and video. But his are a modified frameless cabs.

   Another method is to take a cab making class at your local jr college or adult ed classes. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   beck4000 | Jan 30, 2004 05:05pm | #7

   Want to ty all for the replys... Will consider a BOOK.. but TY all..your guys are Great.oh and the ladies too...

   ty all...as for how does Teflon stick.. hehehhehe I know..If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh