about three years ago I inherited a craftsman tablesaw from my grandfather.The date on the manual said it was bought in 1951.I have used it more in the last three years than he did in the last 50! I use it to make furniture mostly from curly maple and cherry,I have never had a problem cuttiing this kind of wood 2″ thick and everything is dead on square all the time{the saw is 8″}.I was thinking of buying a new saw but if it works this good for me nowplus being my grandfathers I decided my money would be better spent elsewhere.I was wondering if there would be any worthwhile upgrades that anyone would recommend ex. powertwist belt or any preventive maintenance to keep this old but true saw running great.The model #113.27940 any comments or info woulde be appreciated.
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Replies
My only complaint w/ the 'old' Craftsman saws I've used was the rip fences. You may wish to put an aftermarket fence on it, if this is a problem. I replaced an old craftsman fence, and would hate to ever go back to the game of measuring both ends of the fence, tap..tap, measure again, tap..tap, measure again, lock down then cut. A fence that is always parallel to the blade is wonderful.
If it's cutting fine, enjoy it. Put good blades in it, keep things lubed up, wax the table, and make some sawdust.
Enjoy.
Bill
The rip fence would also be my suggestion. Improve the fence and you have improved your sawing efficiency 10 fold. The link belt would be my 2nd suggestion but you have thoght of that already. A removable spliter independent from the blade guard and efficient dust collection would be 3rd and 4th on the list.
Marcello
Mike, I know just how you feel. I'm still running a vintage Craftsman 10" tablesaw I bought in the late '50s and it's the heart of my shop. I've replaced the arbor once, the motor four times...and I've lost count on how many belts and pulleys it's chewed up...But I wouldn't trade it for the world. And the sad fact is you can't buy them new anymore. Craftsman has converted everything they can on their current models to plastic or light-weight alloys to the point that they're a veritable embarrassment to their ancestory. I think the closest thing to a vintage Craftsman you can get these days is the Grizzly...At least it's rugged, cheap, crude and ugly enough to be in the running...But I'll never replace my Craftsman...You see, it and me, we have a decades long contest in process to see who's going to give up the ghost first...And I think it's winning.
The heart of my shop is a 1953 10" Craftsman. I've added a Mulecab Accusquare fence, custom built stand, new bearings, outfeed table, 2 hp, 220 volt TEFC motor. Wouldn't trade it for anything.
My pop got one as a HS graduation gift. I'm assuming I recall the event correctly, which would make it about 58. He always got along with it real good, but the fence - as you've been told, and probably already know. I inherited it but haven't ever bothered to tinker around with it since I already had a saw. The metal on that is older than me and hasn't rusted yet. I think it's a keeper if you wanted to exhaust a little elbow grease into some upgrades. Someday someone around here will want to spend that kind of time and I'll part with it. But its gotta go to a good home, so I haven't been in a rush. Maybe mine will bust first, then I'll have a spare. If it ain't broke . . .
" The State, in choosing men to serve it, takes no notice of their opinions. If they be willing faithfully to serve it, that satisfies." - Oliver Cromwell
I too have an old Craftsman table Saw that I bought in the 70's. The fence was the first thing to go. I bought a Vega 26" utility fence. This made a huge difference! I then replaced the pulleys and belt with a twist-flex, I guess that there was some improvement there in how the saw seemed to run a lot smoother.
My latest improvement is an Osborne EB-3 miter gauge. I didn't know what I've been missing. It has improved my accuracy a great deal.
I guess if I was going out to buy a new saw, I certainly wouldn't start with the Craftsman. But for the cost of a moderate contractor's saw from Delta or Jet, you can improve it to where your old Craftsman (with improvements) is better that most of the Mid-range saws out there today.
Good Luck!
Thanks guys for all your help on upgrading my 1951 tablesaw.I am right now trying to come up with agood idea for dust collection because the motor hangs out the back.I am sure I can come up with something some dust collection is better than none!I am also curious to find a web site that would carry parts if the need arose.When I was thinking of buying a new contractors saw I checked out 3 of the most popular brands[none being a craftsman]and I could not believe how much better my old craftsman was put together than these new saws . Its a shame Craftsman got away from this kind of quality . I would like to know where all the money goes into some of these saws today?
Hi,
I'm with you about the quality of the old verses the new.
I read your posts about your table saw with interest. I have a 30 year old Craftsman radial arm saw that lived thru my divorce that I can't make myself get rid of. It hasn't been used in years but will start. The only problem I had with it when I did run it was on the column where the radial arm was attached. This column had notches where the 45 degree( left), 90 degree, 45 degree( right ) latch pin could be locked. However, in the locked-in 90 degree crosscut position, the arm actually would move and had several degrees of lateral play during a cut and made for quite frustrating work. . The notch that locked this in is what I have tried to correct in the past and it kept doing it . I squared it up many times to the fence but it always would slip free again.
Does anyone have a suggestion short of getting another one? Does the Craftsman warranty of replacing old worn out tools apply to 30 year old radial arm saws?
Mike, make a tapered , 4 sided chute that has a flat bottom ,8" square. Attach a PVC adjustable closet flange with screws to the bottom after cutting a 4 1/2" diameter hole in the bottom.Connect dust collector with short hose. You probably do not have to close off any gaps , such as where the handwheels are.Attach the chute to the underside of the saw , make sawdust. 95 % of the dust goes in the collector. The taper should be fairly steep so the dust slides down easily. I made the chute out of 1/4" plywood. A vega fence or shopfox classic fence would add considerably to your fine saw. Some day you may get a cabinet saw, keep the old craftsmen. I use mine as a 10" disk sander, grinder for jointer knives, and once in a while as a saw when I do not want to change the setup on my cabinet saw.
Mike
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