Have an old Delta/Rockwell Contractors 10″ table saw which was built in 1967. It has a warped top and needs to be ground flat. I have heard of a recall on these tables but can’t prove it. Any one heard of this? Also, have a lot of run out in the blade. I intend to true up the flange while it is on the saw. Has anyone had any experience doing this? Any suggestions? Am I better off negotiating a kitchen pass for a new saw? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Replies
What do you consider warped? When I bought my PM cabinet saw they considered .015" within tolerance. I work on machines and grinding is more than plunking it down on a grinder. It has to be shimmed so the magnet doesn't distort the top or it can come out more warped than when you started. I've had many a jointer table ground by grinding shops. Typically blanchard grinders are mor commonly found for larger surfaces. You sure about the runout? Are you using a dial indicator? All blades will have some runout. Have you tried other blades. The flange must be indicated on the face of the flange and not based on blade run out.
Good questions, RickL! The table is out .019" over 12 inches. Interesting that PM suggests .015" is in tolerance because the number alone is not all too useful. I can't help but to wonder over what distance they are referring to. I would be interested to know. As for the grinding; I have found a place with a blanchard grinder sufficient for the task and I figure the operator of the grinder would know about shimming the table as we did speak about this. Interesting about your jointer table as it brings back memories of when I made a jointer out of 7” channel which was also trued using a blanchard grinder. The runout was measured with different blades mounted at different positions on the shaft though I felt it best to measure the flange directly with the dial indicator. Each method yielded similar results though now I can’t recall the figure. The runout is clearly visible, however. Unfortunately, all this has turned into a moot point as I have found that Delta no longer carries parts for the old saw. Time to start negotiating a kitchen pass for a new toy.
.015" across the table not counting the wings was PM's tolerance diagonal or straight across.
I'm starting to think that one of the worst developments in woodworking is the accesibility of low-cost machinists straightedges. They tell us things about our machines that we might never have known or cared about before. Does the warp show up in the cuts that you make in a way that affects their usefulness?
I'll second the post that warned you might wind up with a result after grinding that's less flat than it is now.
Depending on where the low/high spots are and the design of the machine, you might be able to pull some of that out with shims.
Pete
Edited 11/30/2005 10:51 pm ET by PeteBradley
Come on, it's FUN cutting a piece to within .01", which will move with the seasons 1/4". :)
Well, that hit the nail right on the head. As a matter of fact I had not even bothered to measure it for years and when I did all of a sudden I was discontent. Never really noticed it when I cut wood before. I like the post about cutting to within 0.01" only to have the wood move 0.25" when a weather front goes through. Hmmm, I commonly use a digital caliper when I work and have always thought how ludicrous it was in light of this. Fixed the run out, however, by holding a grinding stone up to the flange while the saw was running. Much better cuts! Thanks for your comments.
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