Old Drill Press Troubleshooting Question
I have an old Craftsman (King-Seeley) Drill Press which is in great shape. It is from circa 1954, and is a beast. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get it to drill for me. When I turn it on, the motor runs, the belt is nice and snug etc. But as soon as I bring the quill down and contact wood, it stops. Could there be an internal problem with the gearing, or is a new motor necessary? As I mentioned, the motor runs, but I really have no way of testing the strength of the motor short of trying to drill with it. The switch is actually on the motor, so it might be hard to find a replacement. Plus, I’d hate to replace the motor and not fix the problem. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. As much as I’d love a new Powermatic DP, I’d love even more to put this big boy back into service.
Thanks,
Joe
Replies
The usual suspect is the capacitor. Your symptoms are typical. It's an easy replacement as long as you know how to solder and will only cost a couple of dollars.
First thing would be to ascertain what exactly stops - if the motor stops turning it is either its capacitor, or another electrical issue. If the motor keeps running but the drive gets lost somewhere it is a transmission problem - belts, broken rollpin, etc.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1
Did you check the pulleys? There is often a set screw that attaches the pulley to the shaft down in one of the belt grooves.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Good show ! My thoughts exactly. I was holding off thinking the "rollpin" that was spoken of might actually be a sheer pin but I don't know about old drill presses.It is most likely a loose or missing set screw just as you say.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Being something of a shade tree mechanic, I find it's a good idea to start with the simple things first. You might get lucky and find an easy fix. No sense yanking the starter if you haven't checked the battery connections. The drill press quill may spin fine until some resistance is applied. Of course it could be something else and this would just be a step in the process of elimination.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
>start with the simple things first. You might get lucky and find an easy fix. No sense yanking the starter if you haven't checked the battery connections.<I do believe you have been looking over my shoulder. On the MG I made the mistake of using bolt on replacement terminals on a long hunk of wire off the role. I put terminal goop on them to prevent corrosion and all.When freshly rebuilt he started instantly, no grinding, just turn the key and the engine was running.Years latter he began to have poor starting. I suspected the starter but first cleaned the terminals. Still poor results. I forget what put me onto it but it turned out to be the deteriorated connection between the wire and the bolt on replacement terminals. It is worth paying the nut for the special melt/molded on factory spec replacements.I very nearly pulled the starter for no reason.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 11/8/2009 10:22 pm by roc
As you mentioned the motor was running, so was to motor pulley. There would be another pulley on the spindle. Was this pulley spinning but it was loosen from the spindle ? There is usually a hex nut that tightens the front pulley to the spindle.
Quang
Run it with the hood off and see if the motor pulley is still spinning when it touches. If it's spinning, it's likely the belt is no good, too long, or has insufficient tension. It could also be that the key is missing from the spindle pulley shaft, allowing the pulley to spin free under load. There's also an outside chance that the chuck taper is junked in some way but ordinarily the chuck would fall out. If the motor pulley stops spinning, the motor isn't delivering horsepower. The most likely suspect is that the motor is wired for 240 but it's plugged into 110. It's also possible that the key is missing from the motor shaft. Less likely is some windings in the motor are fried.
This machine almost certainly doesn't have a run capacitor so it's unlikely that's involved at all (since the cap if present is only used to start the motor).
Edited 11/8/2009 7:52 pm ET by PeteBradley
Look at the pulleys and the belt as you drill. When the quill stops turning does the belt stop too? Do the pulleys slip? If the pullies and the belt do not slip I would be surprised. Is the motor wired for 120 volts or possibly 220 volts.
I doubt the motor is the problem.Either the belt or the pully is the culprit.
mike
How can you tell which way the motor is wired?
If it's a dual voltage motor, that should be indicated on the motor plate with something like 110/220. The wiring diagram may be on the motor plate or may be under a cover where the wires go in, or may be long gone. Have you verified that the motor stops spinning under load? I wouldn't do anything to the motor until you know it's the culprit.
Thanks to all for your suggestions. I haven't any shop time to play around with it since my first post. I will get at it soon, and investigate with all of your suggestions in mind.
Joe
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