Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Jun 29, 2004 02:49pm | #1

   Well, I guarantee you that you "can't hope for the best".  ;o)..   You have to have some finish such as a marine poly perhaps.  But it will undoubtedly need to be renewed from time to time.  And water can't be allowed to remain in contact with the finish for long periods. I've seen it done pretty often--once even at a B&B. It's a fun treatment.

   Gretchen
2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 29, 2004 11:17pm | #2

   Marine epoxy is your only hope. It's the stuff that boat makers use to finish wood boats.

   No other varnish or poly will work for any decent length of time.

   I have also used antique pieces as bathroom vanities. But I try to find pieces with tops that are trashed anyway. I remove the top, and have the countertop guys make a solid surface top (or even some marble) to fit.

   If needed, the extra wood from the old top can be used to add depth to the piece, since most sinks need a 22" top, and most antiques are not 22" deep.

   Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

3. 
   Alan | Jun 30, 2004 12:04am | #3

   Pam,

   I agree with the above poster that your best bet is epoxy.

   I would encourage you to completely encapsulate the wood with epoxy.  That will seal off the wood from the environment and completely eliminate the wood moving because of changes in its moisture content.  This is especially important in a bathroom, and doubly especially important when the piece is the vanity and will have water on it.

   This means every spec of bare wood, inside and out, has to have at least one coat of epoxy on it.  One little area left open to the air can ruin the effect.  I would put one coat on the vertical parts and the inside, and put two coats on the top.  Make sure, when you drill for handles or otherwise penetrate the epoxy, that you re-seal it with more epoxy.

   You can, if you wish, put on a top coat.  Epoxy alone can look quite "plastic" and not real attractive.  I wouldn't use a spar varnish.  Spar varnish is made to remain soft so it can expand and contract with the wood.  But it remains too soft for this use--fully cured spar varnish can be peeled up with a fingernail.  Besides, if the wood is encapsulated by epoxy, it will not move, so spar varnish isn't needed.

   I would use a "bar top" varnish on the top.  Bar top is made extra tough to resist scratches, dings and dents (and moisture; but that's not important over epoxy).  Two good coats of epoxy and two or three coats of bar top, rubbed out to whatever sheen you desire, will look great and will last a good long while with little or no maintenance.

   Alan (sooo longwinded, isn't he?)

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 30, 2004 02:07am | #4

   Noooo --- you're not long winded in my book -- just full of good information.

   Tell me more about the epoxy and bar top finish you have in mind --- brands, application techniques etc. Can such a finish be "renewed" with a sanding and reapplication of the bar top finish?

   I just took on a job where she wants a Craftsman style vanity -- and said she would like to have a quarter sawn WO top, if I could give her some reasonable assurance that it would hold up with 2 adults and no kids. Anything that would look like wood encased in plastic is out -- must have a nice, warm gleam to it.

   Thanks.

   Edited 6/29/2004 7:09 pm ET by nikkiwood

1. 
   Alan | Jul 01, 2004 12:36am | #5

   nikkiwood,

   The best epoxy products I've used are from WEST, which is the Gougeon Brothers' brand.  WEST has a dizzying array of epoxy products that I haven't kept up on.  In the past I've telephoned them with lots of questions and they were very helpful.

   Helpful too is The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction, which you may be able to find in your local library.  It's worth buying even if you never build a boat; it's full of information and inspiration on very fine woodworking and is a great primer on wood/epoxy.

   Epoxy can be applied using most hand application methods.  It can be brushed or rolled on--or, I'm told, sprayed.  The only caveats are to make sure all the tools you use are disposable, and to wear disposable aprons or other over clothes.  If epoxy gets on any clothing it's a goner.

   Most high-end varnish manufacturers make a bar top varnish.  Behlens sticks in my mind as being easy to find.  I've not used Behlens' bar top; but they enjoy an excellent reputation.

   Epoxy usually is very clear with just a hint of amber.  It can look very attractive by itself.  But epoxy alone, built up enough to look like a film finish, can have a plastic look.  Epoxy can be rubbed out to about any sheen desired, which will moderate the plastic look; but I've found rubbing out epoxy to be quite difficult.  IMHO it's easier to put on just enough epoxy to seal the wood, coat it with two or three coats of varnish, and then rub out the varnish.  (The kind folks at WEST can tell you better than I how many coats of what kinds of epoxy would be best.)

   Two or three thin coats of epoxy (so it soaks in a little) followed by two or three coats of bar top varnish is extremely durable.  I wouldn't hesitate to use it in a house with children.  If the surface gets scratched it's easy to renew by scuffing the surface and re-coating with varnish.  But N.B., if the epoxy capsule is worn through or penetrated in any way, that spot must be re-coated with epoxy.

   Whew!  Long winded indeed.

   I hope I've been helpful.

   Alan

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 01, 2004 12:52am | #6

   Thanks Alan, good info.

   I will call the Gougeon guys and see what they have to say. I have never worked with epoxy finishes, and this might be a good one to start with.