Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Oct 20, 2012 11:25am | #1

   Sorry

   I knew I had an old off-brand router hiding in the dark recesses of my shop that I thought might be a Stanley. Alas, it turned out to be a Craftsman.

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Oct 20, 2012 01:53pm | #2

   Thanks for looking though, Ralph.

2. 
   roc | Oct 24, 2012 12:10am | #3

   More info please

    Hi man ,

   Clamp the bit in a metal workers vise (use card board or leather to protect the bit if you give a damn about it.) then use a wrench on the collet nut.

   If no go then put liquid wrench or other penetrating oil on the whole threaded area.  Also . . .

   hit the end of the bit as if you trying to drive it deeper into the collet.

   The collet tends to be tapered and wedge like and needs to be sent in the reverse direction to un wedge it if that makes any sense to you.

   This process, in the worst case scenario, could take a day or two.  Squirt on penetrating stuff. tap it with the hammer, try the wrench, leave it to soak in . . .

   repeat . . .

   I suppose the thing could even be reverse thread.  Probably not though.  If it was somebody would have said something by now.

   I don't use routers much (some)  but I have a buttttttt load of experience loosening fasteners and fit ups that are corroded from rust or galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.  Also a lot of experience with hand grinder collet chucks.

   There could maybe be a recessed place to put an allen or a socket in the opposite end of the motor armature.  Hey I can dream can't I ?

   Can you post a photo or two of the various views of this router ?

   PS: Also if you have a big assed soldering iron or a heavey duty soldering gun you could try heating the collet nut to expand it and help break it free.  It probably got pretty hot in use and so  may have been tightened down while hot etc.

   If you have already put the penetrating stuff on do this out side; I don't want you to die from the toxic fumes or catch stuff on fire.

3. 
   oldwindowguy | Oct 25, 2012 10:20am | #4

   For a while--lets say until the early 1980s-- Stanley routers had the collet taper machined right into the motor shaft, like the taper in a vertical milling machine spindle.  The collet nut threaded right onto the shaft.  The shaft had a 1/4" hole drilled through it crossways just above the threading for the lug of a spanner wrench.  That was the setup for heavier, industrial router motors.  If you see that hole in the shaft, that is what it is for.  I can send you a picture of mine if that would help.

4. 
   RosserB | Jan 15, 2016 11:16am | #5

   Shaft lock

   My Stanley Handyman H39A has a "push to lock shaft" button in the center of the dome top.

   
5. 
   bugsbunny2016 | Jun 14, 2016 06:31pm | #6

   Old Stanley router; getting the bit out of the collet

   Check the power switch.  The Stanley H258-A router has a spindle lock that is integral with the OFF position of the power switch.  In the OFF position, push the switch lever upwards, toward the top of the router.  You should see a notch in the bezel around the switch lever, which enables this movement.  The lever will then move outward, engaging the spindle lock.  Inside the router, the switch lever has an oblong hole that fits over a matching oblong tip on the end of the spindle.  You might need to manually rotate the spindle slilghtly to get the oblong shapes to align, but it should engange solidly when the alignment is correct.  To disengage the lock, push the switch lever back into the router.