Replies

1. 
   Ardito | Aug 05, 2004 12:32am | #1

   USANigel,

   I am looking to build a coffee table in Walnut for my house and waned to test the durability of some finishes first before I built.  I too was also going for a satin finish. 

   What I found to be the best was my 5 coats of Danish Oil.  The first coat was wiped on and then the last 4 coats were "sanded" in with 220 sandpaper.  Then let the piece dry/cure for at least 48 hours.  Then I thinned some McCloskey Oil Based Polyurethane 50:50 with Mineral Spirits.  I wiped on 7 coats of this thin poly formula and then with some synthetic steel-wool I sanded it smooth. 

   I found this "test" piece of Walnut to have the depth of grain I was looking for, and it has HEAT and WATER resistent for my coffee table needs.  I had to issues with setting water glasses directly on the surface of the Walnut. 

   The Danish Oil gave the Walnut a good depth to the grain.  One finish I didn't try was to use BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) and then seal with a 1# or 2# cut of shellac and then do the Oil-Poly wipe. 

   You should cruise over to Jeff Jewitt's website Home Stead Finishing and check out his products he has.  That is where I get ALL of my finishing supplies.  He does stock the McCloskey Oilbased Polyurethane.

   Best of luck!
   Dark Magneto

2. 
   Alan | Aug 05, 2004 12:50am | #2

   USANigel,

   I wouldn't use an oil finish on a dining table without a film finish of some kind over it.  It's too easy for moisture from spills, condensation and the like to stain the wood with just an oil on it.

   I would use varnish.  The toughest varnish is "bar top" which is formulated to be used in areas where denting, water and abrasion could be problems.  If you think your table isn't going to be roughly treated, a regular furniture grade varnish would work just fine.

   With all varnishes you're better off applying gloss and then rubbing it out to whatever sheen you want.  You have to sand varnish to flatten it and to remove all the little bitty things that are attracted to varnish while it dries, so you might just as well turn that to your advantage.  Gloss varnish is harder and doesn't obscure the wood as do varnishes made to have less gloss; and you can rub out glossy varnish to whatever sheen you want.

   Alan

3. 
   bill_1010 | Aug 05, 2004 06:48am | #3

   Waterlox high gloss, cured then rubbed to desired sheen.  Unless you have access to some HVLP sprayers to spray a conversion varnish, waterlox is a dang fine wipe on finish that has some durability.