Replies

1. 
   DonStephan | Sep 25, 2011 07:25pm | #1

   If I tried a ros for this I would not end with a straight edge.

   If you can clamp a stop on a surface, you could plane one edge into the stop. Granted, it's going to take time and patience, but can be done.  You'll probably have to work each edge down a bit at a time.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 26, 2011 10:16am | #2

   re: oops

   If the grain on the side boards runs from front to back, a plane is probably the best tool for the job. If not, a large sanding block may give you better results than a ROS.

   As to clamping, consider clamping a board, sized so it will fit inside the drawer, to your table. A block glued to the under side of the support board would allow you to clamp the drawer to the support board.

3. 
   Mcfarmer | Sep 26, 2011 07:15pm | #3

   Is it to big up and down or side to side ?

1. 
   wanda2010 | Sep 28, 2011 10:30am | #4

   drawer not fitting drawer pocket

   Hi guys,

   Well I managed to sand enough off the sides of the drawer to fit it into the opening. Problem is the left side of the drawer fits nicely (touches the back stop) but the left side of the drawer will stop 1/4" short of the back stop. That explains why the drawer front is proud of the carcass by 1/4" on the left side... Why doesn't the left side fit?The drawer slides in perfectly until it comes to within 1/4" of the back stop. hmmmm  If I use preasure to push the left side of the drawer I can get it to fit the carcass but the mintue I release my hand the front the drawer pops out 1/4" on the left side. What is causing the left side to bind? At first I thought the very back of the drawer was catching on the back leg so I used my rabbet plane to trim the runner from front to back. But if the carcass up top isn't exactly square maybe I should try chiseling away more material.

    I have measured the sides of the drawers and the carcass depth. They are the same. The drawer is square. The sides are flat there is no twist. Perhaps it has something to do with the back leg of the carcass being a wee bit out of square.

   I should have milled the leg blanks! Instead I just bought the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" wooden leg blanks from the hardware store and gave them a light sadning. I was trying to preserve as much wood as possible because the origional plan called for 2" thick material. I won't make that mistake again. I have learned my lesson the hard way.  

   The dresser looks lovely except for the fact that the top drawer is sticking out by 1/4" on the left hand side....   :(   Not all is lost. I have learned so much from building this small dresser. Finally got a chance to use my rabbet plane, smoother and chisels. I'll soon be a pro when it comes to milling lumber. My jointer and planer got a good workout during the building of this dresser.

   wanda

1. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 29, 2011 11:27am | #5

   slides/glides

   What type of slides or glides are you using, Wanda? If you are using the ball-bearing type, might there be some foreign material in the glide? If you are using that type of glide, recheck the distance from the front of the carcass to the front edge of the glide.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 29, 2011 10:58pm | #6

   If the drawers are truly square, then the carcass isn't--the two sides are not parallel with each other.  You may be able to adjust the drawer rails to allow more room on the right side,  tapering the increase to allow enough room at the right rear for the drawer front to be perpendicular with the side while it is flush on the front.    Alternatively you can remake the drawer so that it is not square but fits the opening available for it. 

   Some tapering of the right drawer side may also help keep the adjustments moderate all around. 

4. 
   Mcfarmer | Sep 30, 2011 08:36am | #7

   Looks nice, flush fit drawers are a tough style to start out with.

5. 
   RalphBarker | Oct 01, 2011 08:48pm | #8

   detective work

   I think I'd start by shining a flashlight into the troublesome corner from below, and then try to see what is going on when you close the drawer by using a small inspection mirror. Since you say you can force the drawer flush, it might be something as simple as a glob of glue obstructing the drawer's path.

6. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 02, 2011 10:00pm | #9

   What you need to do is twist the drawer so that the drawer front is parallel with the face of the dresser.  That means adjusting the opposite side to let that twist happen.  You may actually have to ADD material on the left side --side--not the back at that side. 

1. 
   wanda2010 | Oct 03, 2011 09:11am | #10

   HI Guys,

   Ok I'll give that a try. I like the tip about using a mirror. I did shine a  flashlight inside the carcass to  try and see what was preventing the drawer from reaching all the way to the back stop but I couldn't see anything.. I'll use my mirror and see if that works. Thanks for that tip.

   ok... seems I've been going about it the wrong way.. I'll do as you instructed and make the adjustment on the opposite side (right side) to compensate for the out of squareness. 

   wanda

7. 
   GOWINGS17 | Oct 03, 2011 09:17am | #11

   Right side bottoms before left side

   Wanda,  I think Steve is correct, Sounds like the upper carcase frame is a parallelogram and the right side bottoms on the back before the left side. Measure the diagonals of the top draw carcase (with a stick rule),  should be the same.

   Gary