I have six damaged doors I want to try to salvage for custumer. During punch list phase I found six doors had the skin torn loose from the solid core material. I fixed the improper closure set up that caused such a S.N.A.F.U. but now what? The top of each door is mortased so the exposed to the hallway side of these closet pair doors is aprox. 3/4″ higher than rest of door (this conceals hidden closure arms) from view. It’s this skin of the door that has been pulled and partially cracked and torn loose from the face of the solid core door. So the exposed face of the door has an area aprox. the size of your hand on the top next to the hinge side where the skin has bulged out from the top edge. I can fix the crackes but I don’t know correct type of adhesive,glue,epoxy,ect. to use to try to get the skin to suck back up and stick to the solic core material of the face of the door. I’m pretty good at framing, swinging, and hardwaring commerial doors, but this is getting past me. Any ideas would be much apreciated.
Punch List Man– Dallas,Tx.
Replies
cork
there are many ways to repair ripped veneer, the easiest way to repair the veneer all depends on how it was originally put on.
I would try placing a damp rag and a hot iron on the the veneer, if hide glue was used, heating it will reglue the veneer to the surface.
Otherwise you must find out what type of glue you are working with (or against AS THE CASE MAY BE). Remember most glues will not stick to each other. But for simplicity sake. You can also try using yellow carpenters glue, and weight aplied to the surface ,and see if the glue holds when dry.
Another way is to patch the veneer with a new piece of veneer, this gets a little complicated, but tape the two veneers together (the old original veneer and the new matching piece) cut with a razor knife through both veneer's and remove the old one, after scraping away the old veneer and glue, you can glue in the new piece into place.
Without seeing exactly what you are working with, makes things more difficult. Good luck. I hope you success.
Sincerely C.A.G.
I've had success using white and yellow glue, such as Titebond, to secure door skins to the cores of interior doors. I use the glue sparingly applied with an acid-brush or popsicle stick, a caul (board) roughly the size of the affected area to apply pressure evenly and a large clamp to apply the pressure and close the joint. I usually slip a piece of waxed paper between the caul and skin to prevent any glue squeeze-out from gluing the two together. The clamp can be removed after a few hours. Use a damp rag to remove any glue that squeezes out of the joint before it dries.
Depends on if yo're trying to repair the doors in place or if you will remove them to clamp and glue. There are some very thin cyanoacrylate glues that run between two surfaces to which pressure is applied immediately for a few seconds. The beauty is that you see very soon whether it bonds tightly.
Better would be to remove them so they can be reglued and clamped. If you use an epoxy or poly glue, the excess won't interfere with repairing the finish, if that's required, and bec i wouldn't want the problems of introducing water into the equation with PVA glues at this point. Also, the epoxy doesn't look much different under a clear finish, unlike PVA glues; excess poly sands off very easily. If these are commercially-made doors, the chances of their being put together with hide glue is small.
If you have access to a compressor on site, you can use the nozzle attachment to blow the glue farther under the bulge than you can reach with a spreader.
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