Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Jun 12, 2007 03:57pm | #1

   Eric,

   I noticed you posted this in Knots and Kevin was able to get back to you. I feel he gave you very sound advice(as he always does.)

   When I plan on any type of distressed finish I pay particular attention to the color I want to "peek" through. This is the ground color. If I were to use a dark brown it would be almost invisible when you remove some of the black top coat. If you use sand paper to remove the top coat you will most likely rub through to the wood anyways. If you use a water dye for the ground color, you can use some lacquer thinner to selectively remove some areas and not affect the ground color.

   Softening certain areas with lacquer thinner will depend on the thickness of the coat. You may be able to moisten the surface with Q tip  enough to lightly rub it off. You can also use a razor blade and lightly scrape it. These are called negative removal techniques. Be sure to lighly sand adjacent areas that are affected by the thinner.

   However, there is also a technique called positive distressing. After you apply a black lacquer , let it set up, and sand it well. Now you can selectively add a pale glaze to the areas you want to accentuate. When doing this less is always more. I use oil glazes for this. Be inventive with the application; a finger tip works very well and blends nicely. I'll also use a brush but not the tips. I'll use the flat side of the brush and "tap" some color on a sharp edge.

   Concerning the color I would use for the glaze; white would be too stark by itself so I would add a small amount of raw umber, a greenish brown, to age it a little. Or you could use a bit of burnt umber, a warm chocolate brown, if you wish.

   Let your glaze dry well ( a day or two depending on weather) and you can re coat with lacquer.

   Concerning the lacquer; I also like SW products. You don't have to buy two lacquers though. I would get the black tinting paste and add it to my lacquer. That way I already have my topcoat and everything is the same. The down side to that is you have to buy a quart of the tint and a little goes a very long way.

   A couple of thoughts on color; when mixing a black I always add a dash of a red to it. When I say a dash it would be a very minor amount say ten parts black, 12 part red. I aways find straight black too cool to my eye so I warm it up just a touch.

   Another fun technique is to add a small amount of pearl mica powder to your last coat. It will give it a shimmer that is subtle and dramatic at the same time.

   With any new technique, make a complete sample FIRST. This way you can work out the bugs and get a feel for what you are doing.

   Good luck and post a picture when you are done.

   Peter

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   EBrandt | Jun 12, 2007 04:19pm | #2

   Hi Peter-

   Thanks for the excellent advice.

   As for the quart of tinting paste...is that a specific SW product, or do universal tints (of some particular variety) work with Nitro lacquer?

   Also, as to the distressing, (the 'negative distressing') - what about dying, then sealing with some shellac, then applying the black lacquer. The shellac would (hopefully?) prevent sanding thru the dye when distressing?

   I'm not sure I'm 'artist' enough to do a convincing positive distressing. At least not without seeing a 'live' demo of it being done somewhere.

   Thanks,

   Eric.

1. 
   peter28 | Jun 14, 2007 03:48pm | #4

   Eric,

   The colorant I was speaking of is Uni-Cal 66. It is a heavily concentrated industrial grade pigment that can be used to make an opaque lacquer. If used in small amounts with thinner you can make pigmented wiping stains also. I don't get these from SW, but when I showed the manager of my local industrial SW the can he said they sell a very similar product. It's probably identical but with a different label. I've used it for both purposes with very good results. When making a colored lacquer, I would not exceed 10% colorant.

   Concerning Mixol; This is directly from their instructions.

   For lacquer a maximum of 5-8% can be added.

   QUOTE

   " In the case of tinting lacquers sometimes Mixol cannot be mixed easily by hand, therefore use a stirring apparatus if possible. It is also important to test results after stirring. Always test for compatibility with a "rub test". Brush some of the tinted lacquer onto a surface ( white melamine would be good or a white paper plate) and rub it hard with your finger. If it turns a darker shade, the concentrate is incompatible with Mixol or is not properly stirred in. Stir well again and repeat test.

   ADD MIXOL FIRST AND ONLY THEN ADD THINNER AS REQUIRED.

   End Quote. I added the part for melamine as a surface to test on. If I were to use it, I would make up a small concentrated batch, mix well and then add it to my lacquer and again stir well.

   Universal tints IMO, are the one size fits all of colorants. They're OK but there are better products.

   For distressing the edges; you can sand through the lacquer but the shellac coat won't really stop you from possibly going through to the dye. Use a light touch as you can always remove move. If you do go through, just hit it with the dye again. This is especially useful if you plan on putting a final clear coat.  

   Don't sell yourself short artistically. You'll see in these forums how much sample making is stressed. This is where you experiment. You may surprise yourself. The phrase I was taught is you will make "happy mistakes". Be sure to keep notes when you are doing samples. It will be time very well spent.

   Have fun.

   Peter

    

    

1. 
   EBrandt | Jun 14, 2007 04:11pm | #5

   Hi Peter,

   Again, thanks for the good advice. Looks like I've got a little experimenting to do...I'll try to keep you (and anyone else interested) posted...

   -Eric.

2. 
   EBrandt | Jun 12, 2007 04:41pm | #3

   Peter -

   What about the Mixol tints to tint nitro lacquer? Is it compatible?  Will I get opaque black with that, or just dark-but-still-translucent coloring?

   Also, supposing I need to spray about 1 gallon of lacquer, any thoughts as to what quantity of mixol is required to get opaque black?

   Thanks in advance,

   Eric.