Opinions-Veneer Saw vs. Sharp Razor Knife
I’ve done a lot of veneer work very successfully with either a utility knife or at times something like a X_Acto knife. However I’ve seen others using a veneer saw and I am wondering from those that have veneering experience is there a clear advantage to using a veneer saw?
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As with most all woodworking questions, the answer starts with, depends.
Depends on the thickness, the species and direction of cut mostly.
Personally I use what works best for the situation, which is usually different every time. There is no "one size fits all" answer IMO
A veneer saw running against a block will not wander with the grain as a razor can. It will also remain square to the surface being cut and produce a clean-edged finish. I have the heavy bladed one made by Grammercy. But sometimes I'm lazy and the razor comes out.
I use the saw for the reasons above.
Veneer saw will also allow you to stack several leaves--if pressed down under a wide mdf straight edge--to cut them at the same time. And for cross-cutting it much less effort (as well as leaving a cleaner cut). Of course, like all hand tools, your saw needs to be sharp with the teeth properly shaped. Most veneer saws -- either the traditional style with an off-set handle or the French Style from Grammercy--have removable blades that make it quite easy to set in a vise and file. I use a 4" double slim taper file (triangular). The back (side rubbing straight edge) of blade should be flat and polished, the side away from the straight-edge should have a ~45 bevel.
Check out this video of Tom McLaughlin https://youtu.be/6PHjKGUwjUw
For the majority of work, I use a veneer saw. A saw is more accurate/consistent for three reasons.
First, the saw is used in conjunction with a block of wood to guide the cut. The saw works really well here because it won't accidentally grab the block; an x-acto knife can easily slice into the cutting guide on a long cut. Also, because the saw has a much larger surface, it is easy to keep it vertical against the cutting guide, thereby ensuring a perfectly vertical cut.
Second, a knife has bevels on both sides of the blade, so it is harder to ensure that cutting edge goes exactly next to the cutting guide.
Third, the x-acto blades are pretty flexible compared to a saw. With a saw, it is easier to ensure the cut is exactly where you want it to be, i.e. it doesn't accidentally follow the grain.
To be clear, if you do cut with a knife, use a marking type knife with stiff blade and a single bevel for the reason mentioned above.
There are many ways to cut thin stock such as veneer, it all depends on your tools, your skill and the intended useage.
I have used both veneer saws and knives. I prefer a utility knife with a new blade. I use a steel straight edge with a fair bit of down pressure to hold the veneer tight. I use the same technique for both rip an cross cuts. I exclusively use a vacuum press for my work so my veneer blanks are about 1/8” oversized and trimmed after pressing. This way I am not too concerned with quality of the cut. When using the knife I keep the cutting angle as low as I can. This helps the knife cut and not catch during cross cuts. If I have to use multiple pieces in width I cut with a knife then clamp between two boards (with about 1/8” exposed) and joint with a jointer plane. For joining end grain ( e.g. 4 way match) cut as normal clamp like long grain jointing but with as small a revel as I can get (aim for under 1/16”) then use a flush cut trim router instead of a hand plane.
I use the above technique for commercial non-backed veneer (1/24 - 1/40” thick). For shop sawn veneer (~3/32”). I cut the completed veneer with a table saw (rip and cross cut) and trim using the same techniques as with commercial veneer
I use a razor knife and straightedge to cut veneer. For some projects, I create a template with MDF or plywood and use that to guide the razor knife.
When I use my thick cut or purchased thicker cut veneer I use the saw.I ue a knife,a surgeons scaple with removable blade for small cuts
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