Replies

1. 
   georgek | Jun 10, 2005 04:23pm | #1

   Wilk, assuming you're using frameless cabinets, I highly recommend Blum tandem sliders. They sell them as a set, sliding mechanism and hinges. Depending on the size and weight of the doors, you'll need two per door. As far as sealing the doors, if you are trying to make the cabinet moisture proof, it probably won't happen. You could use some foam strips, like the ones for windows. What you really need is for the moisture to escape, consider some ventillation holes. For a finish over laquer, I like to use paste wax, you'll need to tell them to reapply regularly.

   PS... What kind of wood are you using to make the doors and cabinet? Are the doors Frame and Panel or Slabs?

1. 
   randi | Jun 16, 2005 09:42am | #3

   Hey Benchdog

    

   Thanks for the advice. What type of wood and box construction would you suggest for this type application. My main objective on the waterproofing is mainly to stop driving moisture. I will most likely use a slotted rear panel in order to vent the case as well as for cable management.

   Thanks, Wilk.

1. 
   georgek | Jun 16, 2005 05:18pm | #4

   Hi Wilk,

   You mentioned that this was to be a built-in cabinet. What are you building into? The side of the house or something you've built on the deck? Depending on the location, again I need to tell you, you'll find it impossible to keep out the moisture. But as long as your customers know this, I'd use white oak, frame and panel doors. Teak would be better, much more expensive and you're painting it anyways.

   Is there any way you could build a roll-away unit that would fit into a housing outside? Once in place, it could look built-in, especially, if you incorporate wide overhanging face-frames to conseal the gaps.

   Hope this helps

1. 
   randi | Jun 22, 2005 01:48pm | #6

   Benchdog,

    

   Sorry for the lack of knowledge and improper use of terminology. It is actually a free standing unit that will stand in a corner of the deck. I will install casters so it may be moved about for better viewing. However, there is no place for it to be moved out of the weather.Could you use an oak plwood or would that be way to susetible to delamination, or should it be a glue up solid lumber project? I also have thought about a very slight eliptical shaped top that could shed any weather. Thanks for the help.

1. 
   georgek | Jun 22, 2005 03:59pm | #8

   Use solid white oak, especially if you will be fuming it. Make sure you use epoxy for the glue-ups and take care to leave room for expansion in your joinery.

   Good luckGO CUBS!!!

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 23, 2005 08:33pm | #10

   Sorry for the lack of knowledge and improper use of terminology..

   I use that one when I go to my Bank...

   Late post.. I had to think on this a bit...

   How about the brass weather stripping they use for doors... You could form to fit into a groove in the back of the doors with a 'weep' hole at the bottoms (sush a words?)......

   Anyway.. at the top miters you could clean, etch, and solder the joints so water can't get in..

   I'd tell them nothing if FULLY water proof cept fer a frogs butt....

   Edited 6/23/2005 1:42 pm ET by Will George

3. 
   randi | Jun 29, 2005 02:14am | #11

   Thanks for the advise. I had previously thought of the brass weatherstripping. Believe it or not I still do some of my large custom homes that way. You are the third person to suggest it so I take it there must be some validity to my mad way of thinking. Thanks Again!

   Rib-It

4. 
   AlbionWood | Jun 30, 2005 06:42am | #14

   Hmmm, if it's free-standing, exposed to the weather... what else is built of wood and made to withstand weather? Ahah - a house! Build it like a very small house. Same concepts apply."Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."  A. Einstein

   http://www.albionworks.net

2. 
   jackplane | Jun 10, 2005 04:45pm | #2

   An outside cabinet, with black lacquer.

    This to me spells real problems down the road. If that ent. center is not completely sheltered from the sun and rain, you could be getting so many callbacks you'll be like a member of their family. It may be time to re-design a little to save future headaches.

    

3. 
   lwj2 | Jun 19, 2005 08:01pm | #5

   Wilk:

   This will probably not be helpful, but:

   SWMBO (who is also a fanatical UT fan) suggests orange & white tiles laid in a checkerboard pattern.

   This is apparently a mystical UT symbol.

   Also she suggests "a good set of gaskets for the door".

   I, on the other hand, suggest using some fans that suck about 3-10 cfm of air with intakes at the bottom and outputs at the top. Make them so that the outlets are covered with a triangle with it's apex at the top and it's base at the bottom, outlet at the top, for rainproofing.

   Black is going to give you major heat problems with absorption. I'd try for another colour, were I you.

   Good luck!

   And, in closing, GO WOLFPACK!

   Leon Jester
1. 
   randi | Jun 22, 2005 01:56pm | #7

   Hey Jester

   Its a good thing you closed with go Wolfpack or I would really harass your hiney. I actually graduated NCSU in 1980 Brooks Hall Design School, BS Architecture and believe it or not in 1982 from UNC Masters in Design. However when the round ball season is over it is orange blood in my veins. This is homeand you can't change that!

   Thanks for the advice. I had actually planned to form a very slight eleiptical shape roof to shed the water. After a little research this weekend I am leaning towards fuming a white oak with amonia for that dark appearance and then finishing with a marine grade varnish.

   Still searching if you have other suggestions.

   51 days to the pigskin season. GO BIG ORANGE (  #3 ranking as of yesterday ap pole)

   Have a Blessed week!

1. 
   lwj2 | Jun 23, 2005 04:25am | #9

   Might want to consider an epoxy-based finish. That's what we used when we made darkroom sinks in days gone by. (3/4" plywood covered with fibreglass fabric and then epoxied. Crude, but it worked.)Good luck, please put up a few photos of the finished piece.Leon Jester

4. 
   TimLoupe | Jun 29, 2005 03:04am | #12

   Wilk,

   Think about a casement window and how it keeps water out . As far as the flipper doors, if you use a face frame with the doors inset behind the face frame that would keep out the driving rain , if your really adventurous you could make it seal when the doors close up against the frame , also you probably would want the doors to over lap with some kind of rabbet joint in the middle .You might want to build a smaller box inside your cabinet elevated off the base so the back of the doors could seal against it.A window sill type bottom would make sure the water goes the right direction and drill drainage hole just in case water does get in . Just some ideas I'v used

   Tim 

5. 
   dukeone | Jun 30, 2005 01:42am | #13

   Wilk: Now I'm just a beginner at w.w. but do know quite a bit on audio/video/electronics/home theater etc. Will there be electronics of any kind; tv, amps etc. permanently in this cabinet? If so any significant moisture could be a real problem. None of these type items tolerate much in the way of water. Sealing, venting and even heating may not provide fool proof protection in this case. Someone else suggested having the equipment on a roller stand and moving it indoors when not in use; that would be fail safe protection for the electronics. Second best in my opinion would be enough heat to keep it all dry and a design to completely exclude rain and dew. KDM

   Kenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member
6. 
   shedhappens | Jul 01, 2005 03:44am | #15

   I've been using a lot of azek lately.  I even built a new center console for my boat from the stuff.  If you're not familiar with it, it is basically pvc -- but it can be painted but doesn't have to be.  the joints are glued with a cement similar to pipe cement (but clear)  -- it mills about like pine and is easy on the tools, although the dust and shavings are annoying.  Sounds to me like this is the ticket for your project.