Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 11, 2003 06:49am | #1

   I've never heard of that brew. What is it supposed to do? Seems like a really thin varnish. I wouldn't expect it to be very durable.

1. 
   RNT | Mar 12, 2003 05:36am | #2

   Thanks for your question.  I had to look up the article.  Its from FWW #135, which in March/April 1999 and is by Chris Minick.  I object to your calling my stuff a "brew," but Minick also calls it a "brew" so I guess I'll have to back off.  Essentially, his thought is that paint protects best because it blocks the UV with heavy pigment.  Then, he explains, if you want to preserve the grain and have your finish fairly clear, it will crack and discolor in a few years.  His idea is to apply a very thin finish that can just be redone every couple of years without requiring any sanding or scraping.

   I guess most of the paraffin in my brew, I guess I'll have toa call it, did dissolve, but not all of it dissolved.  I don't know why.  Why?  Anyway, I've got three coats of the brew on the chairs now  The color is beautiful and there is no build up on the surface.  My son-in-law is going to be in charge of the refinishing in a couple of years.  Minick does say that this penetrating finish will help preserve the white cedar pieces longer than no finish at all.  He says that he fixes up batches to spray on his outdoor decks every couple of years.  It certainly flows on like water, being so thin.

   What do you think?

   Bob

1. 
   Clay | Mar 12, 2003 06:22am | #3

   Bob; This is a similar strategy and formulation to commercial deck finishes.  The idea is to keep the finish thin enough that it will mostly weather off in a couple of seasons and the rest will be washed away when you clean to prep for a new coat.  That way you don't have to strip or scrape and sand.  The system works fairly well. 

   The parraffin will probably dissolve if you warm the mixture slightly while stirring it.  This must be done with care because of the flammable nature of the mixture     (brew(:-).  The parraffin serves mostly to cut the sheen of the finish and keep it flexible.  I prefer to use linseed oil in my "brews".  Whatever residue you cannot coax into dissolving you should strain out.

1. 
   kdk | Mar 12, 2003 03:23pm | #4

   On a similar note, I live in Minnesota and I'm just getting started building some cabinets that will reside in a 3-season porch.  They will not be directly exposed to weather, but will see the full seasonal temperature swing (~-30°F to 100°F).  To further complicate the situation, the room where they will be placed houses a hot tub.  This adds the element of higher than normal humidity, on average, and near saturation humidity when the tub is in use.  Without going to catalyzed lacquer or some other extremely noxious product, is there a finish that will stand up to these conditions?  I have spray equipment, and will probably spray them unless some form of wipe-on finish is most advised.

   Another semi-related question:  What form of glue would be best suited for this application?  I'm thinking a polyurethane, but don't like the prospect of dealing with the foam-out as it cures.  Will a "moisture resistant" adhesive like Titebond II work, or will I be asking for trouble with any PVA glue?

   Thanks!!

   -Kurt

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 12, 2003 05:48pm | #5

   Minick is correct, the more opague the finish, the longer it will last outdoors. You might want to get the June issues of Consumer Reports for the years 1998, 99, 00, 01 and 02. They have been long term testing outdoor deck finishes and have lots of good info on ones that work and ones that don't. No clear finish for example, lasted even one year. Thompson Water seal was almost worthless but may have been reformulated. Interestingly, the Thompson and some other clear finishes continued to "bead up" water while the wood underneath rotted away. Your local library should have the issues.

   Many clear finishes are linseed oil and wax (probably paraffin). Neither linseed oil or wax provides much protection.

   For outdoor furniture I like to use an oil that can be periodically redone. Film finishes require much more work and almost need to stripped before they can be repaired.

1. 
   RNT | Mar 18, 2003 02:36am | #6

   Thanks for your very thoughtful notes.  The chairs are off to my daughter's now with their three coats of the very thin varnish.  They look great.  I will see them in a year.  Thanks for referring me to Consumer's Report.  I had forgotten about that.  On to the next project.

   Bob