Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Sep 05, 2009 05:05am | #1

   I can't say I'm a roller fan, particularly on a table saw. Work has a way of keeping going. If you let go, it may roll off or may roll back. This isn't something you want to worry about while running a saw. If a roller jams, is out of line or a warped board hits them in an odd way, it can cause problems. Depending on how they are set up, they might interfere with the miter gauge or a sled.

   An outfeed table doesn't have to be up perfectly flush with a saw table in order to work. It doesn't have to be attached to the saw. It's function is to support the work once it's past the blade and keep it from dropping. My outfeed tables are below the miter slot, they are independent. I can slide it out of the way when it comes time to clean up, I need to get to something on the back of the saw or if I have an off load helper. As long as it's wide enough and won't interfere, you can also use it to stack parts during processing. You can't do that with rollers. Most of the attached roller tables aren't very long. If you have to work with 10' or 12' material, they won't support it.

   I'd just build a real simple table. It can have other uses whether you are using the saw or just need a place to stack work. The underneath can also serve as storage. It would probably cost a fraction of what the roller tables sell for.

   Have you had the Saw Stop long? They say they are pretty sweet.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 07, 2009 01:50am | #10

   If you're going to use rollers for outfeed (or infeed), use the ball rollers instead of the cylindrical rollers. The cylinders always want to "steer" your workpiece unless you pay close attention to how they're set up.As far as attaching some kind of outfeed setup to your saw, why not just build a workbench that sits just behind the saw at the same height. That's what I use and it's also as a workbench, assembly table, and (too often) a junk collector. - lol

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 05, 2009 04:49pm | #2

   Home Depot, and only Home Depot, sell an outfeed support that I like. It consists of a flat plate mounted on a sturdy, adjustable post. The plate tips to allow the board to start the outfeed travel and then lays flat. It does not "steer" the board as rollers do and because of slight friction does not encourage 'back-sliding'.

   I checked and mine is a Rigid. I could not find a link to suggest.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/5/2009 10:02 am ET by Jfrostjr

3. 
   jabe | Sep 05, 2009 05:14pm | #3

   I have the HTC mounted on a PM 66. It works very well and you can adjusted even with the saw table top or dropped 3/8" to accomodate the miter gage or a cross ut sled.

   The rollers a very smooth and operate freely. The ability to adjust the level og the table and the fact it drops out of the way when not in use make it very attractive.

    I also have two of the "Home Depot" free standing models.

   They also work but dont seem to have the stability that the HTC offers.

            Mounting the HTC is straight forward and they give detailed instructions. You could call Woodcraft  to confirm that it will mount on your "SawStop",but I dont see why it wouldnt.

                                               Good Luck

                                                Jabe

    

    

4. 
   mikeddd | Sep 05, 2009 05:17pm | #4

    I have two of the flip top stands that I think Frosty is referring to they work great around the shop for allot of things. For a table saw I like some kind of outfeed table though better than stands or rollers. Here is a picture of the ones I have.

   Mike

   
1. 
   Domer | Sep 05, 2009 09:43pm | #5

   Thanks for the responses. I didn't think about having the wood roll back toward the blade. I wouldn't think that would be much of a problem as it would have to slide on the saw table top as well. Hitting one of the rollers does sound like more of a problem.I have a one roller stand that works fairly well but not that great. I think the Rigid stands would be better than the one roller stand that I already have but I really want something permenantly attached to the saw so I can just flip it up for use.I have seen some designs for shop built out feed tables. Maybe I will look at that.I have had the SawStop for three or four months now. It is a great pieced of equipment. It makes making furniture a whole lot easier.Domer

1. 
   mikeddd | Sep 06, 2009 02:43am | #6

     Domer: There is an article in issue #163 called shop-built extension tables it folds down the back of the saw when not in use, for some reason I can't find the link here on FWW Website. It looks like it would work slick the author installs it on a Powermatic, but if you have the SawStop fence on your saw it will mount on the back rail the same way. If I can figure out how to find the old articles on here I will send you the link. Why do they always have to change things?

    Mike

5. 
   RickLoDico | Sep 06, 2009 03:33am | #7

   I also have the HTC on a PM66. It works flawlessly and I've never experienced any of the possible problems mentioned. Well worth it IMHO.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 06, 2009 04:09pm | #8

   I would say.. IF you have the room... I table top will do. I think all you need is some support of the cut 'sticks'.

1. 
   Domer | Sep 06, 2009 05:53pm | #9

   Room is the issue. My wife hasthe quaint idea that cars should be able to get in the garage. So all my tools have mobile bases. In addition the flooris not perfectly flat so my mobile workbench works in some places and not in others.
   Domer

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 07, 2009 04:26am | #11

   Domer,

   Why not use the construction concept of the HTC roller table and make one out of plywood, maybe even a torsion box and some folding legs.  It could fold down when not in use, same as the HTC. 

   For the supports legs you might be able to have them fold back against and to the bottom of the TS or mobile base instead of down to the floor.  That way it would always be co-planeer with the TS top no matter what irregularities may be in the floor.

   Just another idea,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   Edited 9/6/2009 9:28 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 07, 2009 05:08am | #12

   My wife has the quaint idea that cars should be able to get in the garage...

   LOL LOL LOL.. I was lucky.. My wife did not like to drive... A car.. She loved her old Harley though!

1. 
   Domer | Sep 07, 2009 06:21am | #13

   Steve Maskery has a video that has a outfeed table that rests on two supports that fold out and so the table is always even with the table top and does use a torsion box for the top. The biggest drawback to his design is that the torsion box has a 1/4 in top and bottom skin and also 1/4 inch strips for the torsion box and so he did not put in the miter slot extensions.However, Fine Woodworking of May/June 2003 has an out feed table with the miter slots using thicker wood for the torsion box.It seems to me that a combination of the two plans would work pretty well. I might even just use a piece of 3/4 plywood for the table. That should make it pretty easy to make.Thanks for all the help.Domer

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 08, 2009 05:30am | #15

   Domer,

   OK, how about making it such that the legs support a frame and the tabletop (torsion box?) just sits on the frame and it's set so when flipped up it ends up just below the miter slots.  Then you could insert 3/8" sticks/shims that would raise the tabletop to be flush with the TS.

   I have one that works this way but it doesn't flip up and down.  I'm thinking you could use a sort of franch cleat to hold the table on the frame when you flip it down so it wouldn't fall off the frame. 

   When raised and you want it flush with the TS top you may have to slide it just a bit to clear the cleat so you might want to leave it a 1-2" space between the outfeed top and the TS.

   Sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, at least in my mind.  I do have a strange minds sometimes.  :-)

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Domer | Sep 08, 2009 05:42am | #16

   I have a hard time envisioning the mechanics of how that would work.Several of the outfeed rollers have that feature. Maybe if I go look at one it would help.I do appreciate all of the helpful advise.Domer

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 08, 2009 06:27am | #17

   Domer,

   I have a stationary outfeed table that works as I described, kinda.  Only difference is that it doesn't fold down and it's not a torsion box.  Just a piece of ¾" baltic birch, banded with solid wood and two ribs that sit on the base. 

   When I want the outfeed table flush with the TS top I insert two, I call them shims but reallly just 3/8" thick pieces of wood (depth of miter slot) between the base and the ribs thus raising the whole table.  This way I have no need for slot extensions from the TS into the outfeed table.  Sleds, miter gauges etc. all work.

   To be honest I rarely insert the shims, basically only when I'm ripping long boards and want the workpiece supported through its entire length.  I prolly overcomplicated it in my previous description.  I can post some pics if that would help.

   Regards,

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

7. 
   brownman | Sep 07, 2009 08:51am | #14

   I didn't take the time to read the other posts so I may repeat what some others have said, but in my experience rollers don't work that well. If they're not exactly square to your blade they tend to pull the work right or left and effect the cut. You can build an out feed from scrap sheet stock and plastic laminate, at less cost ,that will fold down behind the saw when not needed. Although I've found that it's easier if you attach the table behind the saw in a manner where it can be easily mounted and removed if needed. Just design a way to attach it to the rear L bracket of your table saw.