New deck chairs, cedar, and matching side table, and matching plant stand.
Chairs are made out of cedar, and accent pcs. are pine.
How to stain or seal against the harsh winters, and sun, here with a south facing deck?
Not to mention the severe sun in the summer months?
Poly, Paint, or clear coat finish, maybe a water seal?
K.
Replies
I favir leaving cedar au naturel -- it weathers to a nice grey color. Easiest finish out there.
If you decide to finish try the paint tint base. You buy the darkest tint BASE (what they would add tint to to make exterior oil base paint). It dries clear and in some tests done by various people on Wood Magazine's board, it is extremely long lasting.
I agree with leave it natural, let it weather. I've done this for teak furniture in my back yard. Wash it down a time or two each season and you're good to go. By far the best solution. You can invite all the neighbors for margaritas with the money saved.
Next best is paint--with pigment and preferably using light colors. It's the pigment that protects the wood from breaking down in UV light. Use the best you can find--there may be bargains but consumers can't find them so always use the top of the line enamel from a name brand manufacturer. Oil base is best. (Latex for houses because of the need for moisture transfer.)
I've seen the information to use the paint base as a clear finish and am not convinced. Sure, the exterior paint base will have UV inhibitors, and mildewcides. But the manufacturer thinks the material will be used with pigment and isn't going to spend the money on those additives that a manufacturer making a top quality clear finish will, especially if he will be selling the paint base for half the price of the good clear finish. The plus will only be cheapness that I can see.
For clear finishes: Avoid polyurethane--the poly resin is naturally susceptible to UV, deteriorating much more readily than do alkyd and particularly phenolic resin.
For clear finishes, if you are a glutton for punishment and continued annual maintenance consider a good spar varnish. This will NOT come from a big box store, nor will it come from typical paint stores. It will only come from a store catering to boaters. The brand will be Epifanes, Interlux, or Pettit, and you will be buying the top of the line traditional spar varnish. It will cost $25 or more per quart. Spar varnish from the hardware store at $12 per quart will be more expensive to use. You will apply the suggested number of coats of finish--at least 6 coats. You will touch up any dings immediately. Each spring you will scuff sand and add another coat of varnish. (Twice a year if you live in the South.) Every half dozen years or so you will strip it all off and start over.
I have heard good reports about an addendum to the spar varnish system that begins with a couple of coats of low viscosity epoxy, such as the Smith & Co. CPES epoxy. A FWW article in the past year discussed this method. I am using this on the teak on my sailboat this spring, with Epifanes gloss varnish on top.
If you want clear and want to reduce the maintenance aspect, consider having covers made--sunbrella is good-- so the furniture can live out of the sun while not being used.
Edited 4/7/2006 8:01 am ET by SteveSchoene
I've seen the information to use the paint base as a clear finish and am not convinced. Sure, the exterior paint base will have UV inhibitors, and mildewcides. But the manufacturer thinks the material will be used with pigment and isn't going to spend the money on those additives that a manufacturer making a top quality clear finish will, especially if he will be selling the paint base for half the price of the good clear finish. The plus
The ongoing tests reported for this paint base is pretty complete--several years. Done by professionals. It is "paint", as I understand it. The other things aren't being added by the tablespoon with the tint.Gretchen
Pigment is the best blocker of UV light, keeping it from penetrating both the wood and the inner layers of the paint film. That's why paint is the best preservative for outdoor furniture, superior to any clear finish.
Do you have any url's with the details of the test results?
It has been posted many times here and also where you visit on Wood Magazine. I'll try to bring it up., I feel strongly you have seen it.Gretchen
I have had good luck with 4 coats of Waterlox Original on my Redwood deck, chairs and other outdoor furniture and decorative pieces. I built the deck last June and it looks as if the wood was cut yesterday. The Waterlox web site recommends to put another coat on the outdoor items when you start to see some dullness, no stripping or sanding required to do this. Waterlox also has a marine formula they recommend putting on top of 2 coats of the Original for decks, but I didn't want the high gloss look it has and in it's place I put on 2 more coats of the Original. Right now I don't see a need for any touch up or the need to add another coat to the deck or the furniture. Terry
Santa Barbara,CA
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