i’m making a small footstool out of padouk. it looks extremely grainy and porous. my prefered finish is oil and wax. i bought some behlen neutral grain filler and did a test sample, dried, followed by sanding and oil. the results are disappointingly white in the grain. wondering if i even need to fill? my original thought was that it might bleed oil for an extended period of time if i didn’t fill. i guess if filling is necessary i want to know if i can pre-color the filler? another possibility might be to seal the pores some how, but can i still get the same look with the oil finish?
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Replies
You definately can color the filler. Artists oil paints or japan colors both work well. The color can either match or contrast with the base color of the wood.
If you want an oil finish, without the bleeding, make the first two coats light--not flooded on. This has a chance of sealing the pores so later coats don't bleed.
Try satin urethane diluted 30% with thinner. brush it on and let it penetrate for a few minutes then wipe it across the grain. Repeat the next day with full strength satin urethane give it time to penetrate, wipe it off, let it set up overnight and the pores should be full enouth to accept a light sanding followed with paste wax. good luck
Don't fill the pores at all. Padauk finishes beautifully with no filler. Finish with either an oil/varnish preparation or a wiping varnish (which is nothing other than 50/50 diluted varnish/solvent).
Sand the padauk to at least 320 grit or go to 400 because padauk is a wood that will reward you the higher you "polish" it. Apply the first coat of either finish liberally and allow to penetrate for 30-45 minutes. Rewet any areas that become tacky, then wipe as completely "dry" as possible.
Apply further coats using 4-0 steel wool as the applicator. The steel wool will abrade off the roughness of the first coat and polish succeeding coats. Apply 3-4 coats 72 hours apart, wiping "dry" each time. Apply the last coat with a cloth, padding as you would with french polish. Use the slightly damp pad to wipe the surface just short of dry, leaving the thinest film you can.
Give the final coat a month to harden before using the piece, or doing one very light final abrading with dry 4-0 to achieve a perfectly uniform sheen.
Rich
Apply oil and wet sand the paduak with 320. Let sit until sticky, but not too tacky. Wipe off oil, let cure for 2 days.
Repeat.
Give it a final oil wiping without sanding. You be done.
The slurry created by sanding the wood with oil will fill the pores with dust that is orange red now, but will change color over time with the rest of the wood. Matching filler color on fresh paduak only guarantees too light of a color after as little as three months.
Very good point. Using pigments to tint filler, as I mentioned in an earlier post, means shooting at a moving target because of the typical color change of padouk. If you use this approach you must remember to "lead" the target, a tricky thing without lots of practice.
One other point about oilling is that it is a good thing to apply the first coat of an oil finish in the morning so it is easy to check on it frequently so any bleeding can be wiped off before drying into those little shiny scabs that have to be sanded off.
thanks for the input. i colored some filler and did more samples. still don't like the results. i will probably use oil, or urethane diluted or a mixture of both and get some sanding dust in there too. perhaps it will fill slightly. i do a lot of fine sanding lately because i appreciate the soft feel and the glow as was also pointed out here in a posting. thanks again.
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