Good Morning –
I just finished a paduak top for a metal wine rack. The top is four feet long, 1 1/2 inches thick, and almost fourteen inches deep. No glue-up was needed, it’s one solid piece.
The top is finished with half and half diluted, wiped-on, gloss polyurethane. I’m delighted with the appearance, except for a two inch streak at the edge that will be next to a wall. When viewed from some directions and from some angles, that streak looks like it has a flat finish. From other directions and angles, it blends with the rest of the top and appears as a gloss finish.
The maverick steak is contained beyond a grain line and adjacent to where the sap wood would be, although no sap wood shows on the top of the piece.
This is the first time that I’ve worked with paduak, and I will definitely be using it again. It’s nice to work with and it’s appearance is beautiful!
I will appreciate any comments you have about how to fix my current problem, and how I can avoid it in the future. Also would appreciate comments about filling pores.
Thanks, Dick
Replies
Dick,
I can think of only 2 reasons for the problem, although you'll probably get a few others here...
1. Your finish was not thoroughly mixed before you applied it, and you happened to get a streak of a different gloss. Easy fix - just give it another coat.
2. The grain direction of the padauk changes dramatically beyond that line and gives the optical effect of a different finish from some angle of viewing. Here also additional coats will improve the result.
Wonderful wood to work with, except that the dust will dye everything in the vicinity. And some people are allergic to it. Use a mask, and old clothes.
DR
This is a old post I just read again....
except for a two inch streak at the edge that will be next to a wall..
SO what.. I can not figgure out why folks want to wood to 'LOOK' perfect when it is NOT!.. Thats IS the beauty of God makin' it!
Dick
A simple word of warning
Be careful with Padauk. Use a respirator. The dust is known to cause respiratory problems, and I speak with experience, unfortunately.
Jeff
Amen!(but such a gorgeous wood!)
Rich
If you are sure that you got the same amount of finish as the rest of the piece, it my be reaction wood. It always seems to absorb more finish, and look duller under whatever finish is on it. However it sounds like you just may not have gotten the same or a sufficient amount of finish in the final coat.
Do you know how to recognize and avoid reaction wood? It can occur in any species.
Edit: You may already know that sunlight will cause the red to fade, and it will end up a tobacco brown color. So keep it away from windows.
Edited 5/29/2005 12:25 am ET by rootburl
Good Morning -
You commented about "reaction wood" and asked whether I knew what it was and what to do about it. No, I don't know what it is. Yes, I am very interested in knowing what to do about it.
Any information you can share or a reference I can pursue will be much appreciated.
Thanks, Dick
Dick,Almost all commercial lumber is obtained from the trunk portion of the tree from just above the ground to the lowest limbs. This is the "clear bole."Good lumber trees grow fairly straight up against gravity. All the forces in the trunk are well balanced. Lumber cut from such a tree, or region of a tree will be relatively free of internal stresses when it is cut into boards for lumber, whatever the sawing method. Although some type of cuts may be more balanced or stress-free than others.If a tree does not grow straight up against gravity, the leaning trunk must adjust its structure to keep from falling down. To illustrate the extreme of this situation, think about a branch growing out from the side of the trunk as it grows horizontally and curves upward. The structure of the branch on the underside is much more dense in fibers than the top. There are very high internal stresses in the wood that compensate for its own downward weight.While not as exaggerated, the structure of a tree trunk that has leaned or bent to seek sunlight, or from a number of other factors will have varying structural elements. The stresses are in balance with gravity, but when that function stops, the wood simply has unbalanced stresses locked in.When such wood is cut into lumber, the forces may reveal themselves immediately in highly warped boards, or they may stay locked until a woodworker starts further milling the wood. Then it warps, bends, curls like crazy. The worst place for this to happen is on the table saw when a rip cut results in the kerf closing tightly or the cut piece curling away from the blade. The stress plays all kinds of havoc. Such wood is useless as good lumber.Because the fibers in the area of stress are of a different density that surrounding wood, they may stain or accept finish differently.BUT, since reaction wood seldom makes it to a finished state, I doubt if this is a practical occurance.I think if you apply enough coats, your finish will become uniform.Rich
Good Evening Rich -
Your comments are interesting and nicely stated. The example of a branch growing outward and upward makes it easy to visualize differences in the structure that would result in variations of appearance when finished.
I'll wipe on more coats of poly and hope that resolves the difference in appearance.
Thanks, Dick
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