I was going to build a combination bookcase and drawer wall unit for my bedroom. I was planning to use mahogany with a clear lacquer finish. Subsequently the Bedroom Design Authority decided they wanted a painted finish. So, given that the unit is to have a painted finish, I will use some wood other than mahogany, maybe birch or some other strong stable wood that takes paint well. Any suggestions?
Also, for the mahogany design I was planning to dovetail the case sides to the top and bottom. I still want to use through dovetails, even though they will be painted over, to preserve the structural rigidity. Since I will be painting end grain (dovetail pins) will I still be able to get a good finish where the dovetailing is not visible?
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There are other joints that will provide the structural rigidity you need for the cases. The casework dovetails would still be visible under the paint; but this more muted appearance might just suit your taste.
You don't say if you are planning to make the cases out of plywood or solid lumber, but I assume the latter if you are going to dovetail the joints. If so, either poplar or soft maple would be a good choice.
Also, if your plan is to dovetail the cases, I assume you will also dovetail the drawers. If so, you might consider using a natural finish for the drawers -- especially if you going to have false fronts. Painting the fronts and varnishing the drawers is a look which you might like in this sort of application.
Don't think I want the dovetails to show through the paint. I always felt that dovetailing a case joint was always the strongest joint. What else would be as adequate?
I do plan to use dovetail joints and a natural finish on the drawers. Will have frame and panel false fronts (painted) and the drawers will be inset.
I always use a locked rabbet on plywood case work -- strong as all get out, and invisible from the sides.
I would recommend using plywood for the cases, unless you have some compelling reason not to.
Not sure what a locked rabbet is. These units will be bearing a lot of weight. Will plywood joints be strong enough?
Easy to draw, harder to explain.
Think of it as 1/4" dado in the case side, with a 1/4" tongue on the case top/bottom.
Does that help?
Yes, I think I know what it would look like. Thanks.
jack,
Most folks like poplar for painting.
How about half-blind pins on the case ends? Dovetail the top down, and the bottom up.
Cheers,
Ray
"Most folks like poplar for painting".
I have tried using poplar before on my kitchen cabinet doors. It did finish nicely but I had terrible luck with warpage. I wound up using solid birch for the cabinet door frames and MDF for the panels. Both materials took the white enamel finish very well. Anyway, I have since avoided poplar but maybe I should try it again and give it several weeks to adjust to my workshop before attempting to work with it.
Using only quarter sawn stock will also make a difference.
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