I have ordered a horizontal raised panel bit, after inquiring here in an earlier thread about vertical panel raising bits. Thanks for the great feedback. I am now planning on how to assemble and paint my narrow frame and panel doors. I know that painting is a poor finish option for Frame and Panel, but it is a requirement for our remodel project.
Thus my next question: How can I handle the float (if any) in an 8 1/4″ wide panel so that it won’t reveal unpainted material?
It will be made of poplar, and I expect expansion across an 8 1/4″ width may be negligible, so maybe I can fix the panel in the frame. Alternatives I have considered are:
– Pinning it at the top and bottom thru the frame after pre-painting the panel.
– Making a 1/8 small bead of silicone glue, let it dry and use it as a buffer in the groove.
– Glueing the panel in the groove for a couple inches at the top and bottom.
– Assume I will never repaint it and just let the pre-painted panel float. This assumes I can’t neglect expansion and contraction. I will be assembling and painting the panel in our very dry summer, so I believe that is the period of maximum panel exposure. I like this alternative least, I think.
Any comments and suggestions on my thinking and alternatives will be appreciated!
Regards,
Jerry
Replies
Paint the panel before assembling the door and do not glue it into the frame. Pinning at the center top and bottom is probably okay.
Freud America, Inc.
JerHall ,
I agree with Charles , at least prime the panel if not a coat of paint . I make panels 1/8" shy in each direction and pin behind the panel , without actually penetrating the panel place a few on all sides , this has two purposes 1 , it should help to keep the panel centered even if it shrinks or grows 2, the pins can prevent any rattling .
good luck dusty
Give the panel a coat of paint at least around the routed edge that will be entrapped. Pin it top and bottom at the center of the width. If it is an exterior door, put the pin from the interior side without going all the way thru. Brass nails cut short make great pins.
I'm not sure about the summer being the driest time - you have to be the judge. For many areas the artificial heat of winter is much dryer. In any case you should not have more than about 3/16" of variation in a panel that narrow, but you should not ignore it.
DR
Rockler sells "Space Balls" for just this purpose. They are small 5/16" rubber balls that you slide in the frame to position the panel. Keeps then from rattleing as well.
Toothpicks. Insert two per side and cut off excess. These expand and contract with your panel.
First of all use MDF for the panel, it is a lot more stable than solid wood and you probably won't have any movement problems. I prime the panels with a shellac based primer before I glue up. It dries very fast and sands nicely. Tint the primer as close to the final paint as possible. I don't use the final oil based paint before assembly because it takes days for the stuff to dry enough to assamble without sticking and scratching. I use space balls, they are sold at any cabinetry supply store. Before I paint (after assembly) I apply a thin bead of the best caulk on the market. I know it sucks to use caulk on cabinetry, but hey, this is paint grade. If you apply the bead correctly it will be invisible. Then I spray two coats oil based paint. For a really nice job you can put a clear coat over that.
Mike
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