Replies

1. 
   ktkamm | Aug 28, 2003 09:28pm | #1

   I have an old cape in Maine and recently "painted" it with a Ben Moore product called woodscapes. It is a water based stain and I have been pleased with the results. It actually functions as both the primer and top coat. Easy application and easy clean-up.

   The other thing I found that helps to limit peeling paint is to back prime the clapboards. This will help limit moisture coming through the clapboards. Obviously only a possible solution if you are replacing any clapboards.

   Hope this helps.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/28/2003 2:38:11 PM ET by KTKAMM

2. 
   jc21 | Aug 28, 2003 10:49pm | #2

   http://www.sherwin-williams.com/diy/exterior/commonproblems/peeling.asp?extnav=on#  This link has some good prep pointers. On old wood I prefer an oil/alkyd primer followed by two acrylic/latex topcoats. Any mildew should be removed with a bleach/TSP solution. Cover your plants when using this solution to prevent any damage to them. The wood must be clean and dry. If bare wood is exposed for too long a time, it may require sanding to expose fresh wood to ensure adhesion.

3. 
   Kevin | Aug 29, 2003 01:10am | #3

   Frankly, as a pro painter/finisher I can tell you that 99% of the time I have found that counter help at paint stores know little about applying the products that they sell. My advice would be to either go to a commercial paint store (much more experienced/knowledgable counter people) or ask painters.

   I've only painted a couple houses, neither of which match your description. So, I won't try to give you opinions that may not be very helpful. I will say, though, that I use a lot of Sherwin Williams products and the SW folks that I deal with are very knowledgable and helpful.

   Regards,

   Kevin

4. 
   Mackwood | Aug 29, 2003 07:22am | #4

   Piano man

   IMO jc is on target.  We have a paint contracting business in Seattle and I would recommend an oil primer followed by latex top coats.  Top coating is a two person job.  Have one person spray a heavy coat on and one other person "back roll".  The system will take a bit of practice if the painters are inexperienced but---.  The sprayer puts it on almost to the point of running.  The person with the roller W/extension pole then just evens it out.  The "roller" should not have to pick up paint for the roller and shouldn't have it dripping off the roller either. The back rolling will push the paint into any small cracks and crevices that the spray misses. When that coat is on and dry, spray on another light coat over the whole works and leave it alone. 

    I would recommend, especially on "stripped" wood, that you paint everything the "body" color, then go back and brush/roll your trim over the top.  This puts quite a bit of paint on the trim but if it's been stripped, that won't be a problem and things will go a lot easier.

   We are a painting company and that's how we've done our home and all of our rental houses.

   Sorry this was long winded!  Good luck!

   Mac 

1. 
   Neil | Aug 29, 2003 04:10pm | #5

   Do you sand down the stripped wood if it has been stripped since last fall. If so, what grade of sandpaper would you use?

   Thanks for your help!!

   Edited 8/29/2003 9:13:44 AM ET by the piano man

1. 
   Mackwood | Aug 29, 2003 05:36pm | #6

   PM,

   It sure wouldn't hurt to sand.  I would use 100grit.  That's assuming there is no paint left.  Any areas that have old paint still present should get roughed up with 50 grit, the the edges feathered out with 100.  Someone mentioned back priming any replaced wood.  Very good idea if you are replacing any pieces.  Someone also mentioned SW.  Another good idea!  We use SW or Kelly Moore almost exclusively.  Avoid HD, Sears, etc and stick with a commercial paint store.

   A word about colors.  The commercial paint stores will have colors that are grouped together.  Example: Kelly Moore, Historical Colors.  Unless you or your significant other are a designer, stick with those combinations.  Don't pick your colors out of the huge piles of those little strips at the store.  The colors look way different on a chip than they do on the side of a house!!  We've had two cutomers already this year that had to pay extra because they didn't like the color they chose after it was on the house. 

   Good Luck!

   Mac

2. 
   jc21 | Aug 29, 2003 05:36pm | #7

   The U.S. Forest Products Laboratory says "Exposure to UV radiation for a little time as 1 week can decrease the adhesion to a smooth planed surface, even though the degradation is not visable" .............. I'd sand. Assuming a smooth surface, I use 80 grit on a PC 333 random orbit sander and 100 grit for hand sanding. If your sander is more aggressive, you'll have to go to a finer grit paper. Set any nails so you don't sand off the zinc coating if they're galvanized and to avoid tearing up the paper.

5. 
   Mackwood | Aug 30, 2003 06:35am | #8

   Piano Man,

   Discussed your project with the "boss".  She says " Back roll the primer too".  It's sounds like you intend to keep the house for a while.  Might as well not miss a step!

   Regards,

   Mac

6. 
   AryaJon | Dec 23, 2019 02:27am | #9

   After reading your situation I would recommend to your contact with James Kate Painting they suggest you the best advice about what to do, Recently I have been done my house painting job, they are also experts at counseling.

   Good Luck!!

7. 
   user-6480500 | Dec 26, 2019 10:28am | #10

   The main problem with a wood sided house is the back side. Moisture will come through the wood clapboard siding from the back side. This will lift whatever paint you use away from the wood. Then people stand their scratching their heads wondering what happened. People long ago sided houses like they sided boats.