I’m in the process of building 10 M&T doors for a painted bookcase. The panels are going to made from standard bead board. FYI – I don’t have access to a sprayer so everything is being brushed on.
My question has to do with the painting process. I’ve made doors like this before and painted them after assembly. By doing this, you always end up with the paint looking horrible where the panels meets the rails and stiles. Is it possible to paint prior to assembly? Any ideas would be appreciated.
thanks,
Joe
Replies
You certainly can paint the panels before assembly, and yes it will help although perhaps not as much as you might think because you still have to paint the rails and stiles and then you will still run the risk of runs and drips and buildup.
Couple options:
1. Build a "throw-away" door and practice painting on it. Use a small, fine brush with a scant amount of paint on it, and build it up in coats. Thats what I did just about this time last year with a similar project. The KEY is to make sure that at the top you go really light on the paint, otherwise it will build up in the gaps and run down - the minute you walk away :-)
2. Consider caulking where the panels join the rails - use a flexible caulk like Alex II (I buy it by the case). I did this with the bb in my bathroom remodel. You may have to caulk twice to avoid depressions at the bottom of the panel.
3. Consider renting a spray outfit - local rental companies have the most amazing things to rent, you may very well find they have an HVLP outfit for example. If this is your first time out with a spray rig, do plan on practicing, and experimenting to get the consistency of the paint right.
Good luck!
Roger
I'd rather be making cabinets and friends....
Consider two things.
1. Type of paint. For wood, I only use a good flowing oil base paint. My current preferred brand is Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo. I thin is with MS about 10% to 15%. I also use a Wooster China/Ox brush. This is a natural bristle brush. The color is brown/auburn; not black. The bristles are very soft. It is a very good brush compared to others on the consumer market. I bought mine at a local paint supply store. I think the flow-ability of the paint is the most important issue. Experiment a bit to find the right viscosity.
2. Order of operations. I paint along the long axis of any cross-rail; allowing my strokes to lap slightly over the piece it intersects. Then come back on the second piece and paint with strokes perpendicular to the first piece, thus keeping all final brush strokes parallel with the long grain of any piece.
Joe: FWW had an article in a recent issue about painting casework, the results looked perfect. Maybe someone will rememeber the issue #. Duke
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I'm Ok with the painting techniques. I'm looking more for advice on the painting order when it comes to putting the doors together.
I know I can paint the panels. But I think I'm going to carefully prime the rails and stiles prior to the final glue up. Any issues?
Sorry can't help you there. DukeKenneth Duke Masters
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I have made many doors.. ALWAYS pre-painted the parts.. Well, at least a good primer.. Sand it well and re-paint if necessary..
I would just brush as usual... AND had a brush and solvent for the finish.. AND ALOT of rags... Paint away... Used the 'other brush' as a mop if I had to.. Swish it around in the solvent.. Whatever it was.. Rags to squeeze it out.. NEW MOP.. WORKS!
The way to render good looking results with a brush is good tool control and good paint (this means properly conditioned, too). Here's how I would do it:
1.Starty by pre priming everything you can. Apply the following techniques for this, and use a fast drying, oil based primer (I always use shellac based primer for interior applications because it covers the best and dries almost immediately, but it's tricky to use). The primer should be close to the finish color. Sand lightly but thoroughly with 120 paper or a fine sanding sponge when dry (2-3 hrs should do it), dust off and assemble doors, and mortise hinges . 2. You'll need a set up to paint so that each door can be painted on all sides with minimal handling until dry. Painting them installed is actually a good way to go sometimes, especially if there's no one around. Another option would be to install hinges on the doors, then the doors on a temporary vertical plane in your shop (wrap the hinges with thin tapeor saran wrap before install for a quick mask). This is important especially if you're painting both sides -oil takes twelve hours between coats. 3. prime and sand any remaining bare wood. dust. wipe. 4. Get a high quality alkyd (oil) paint for the top coat, plus the additive Penetrol to condition paint (follow directions).This will increase working time, "loosen" the paint to reduce dragging, level and hide your strokes .Practice the following steps on a scrap door, starting on the back: First, apply a very thin coat of paint to the entire panel using a "weenie roller" (foam hot dog shaped roller). Make it very thin and consistent, and bump it into the edges of the rails and stiles - but keep it light in the corners, especially at the bottom. Using a clean, quality brush (ay least 2" wide, 2-1/2 or 3" is good) spread the paint in the edges and corners all the way around. watching for buildup. Next brush in the panel, using only the paint you've applied with the roller. Start in the corner of bottom edge and make parallell strokes about a third of the way up, pulling the brush away smoothly. Then repeat from the top down to get the remaining two thirds, and smooth the vertical edges while you're at it . Now the panel should look good, and you just touch up the bottom and top inside edges with a couple of careful strokes. Then move on to the outside edges of the door, followed by the rails, then the stiles. Repeat on front, then don't touch for twelve hours.
By the time you finish your tenth door, you'll be an expert (but your first three will look like cr*p!). Or you could just spray,
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