Replies

1. 
   ASK | Oct 13, 2004 01:16am | #1

   Ryan,

   Go to the source. Get in touch with the people who make the paint.

   I'm sure there are plenty of web sites. They will probably be able to give all the info you want or need about what kinds of paint to use, how to apply. etc.

   There is a book I bought years ago: How to paint anything. Haven't got a clue who wrote it or the publisher but I'll take a look and see if I can find it

   ASK

2. 
   Jimmbo | Oct 13, 2004 04:01am | #2

   Been there - furnished a room for our "first" a couple years back, and painted all.  I can't direct you to a book, but can offer benefit of some experience.  Assuming you are not spraying.  Quality paint (more expensive) makes a big difference because it flows better.  Water based are almost as good as oil now in terms of flow and finish and durability, and much much easier to clean up.  Do prime first.  Invest in a good brush (Purdy) and clean it well and it will return the investment over time.  Don't let your impatient wife clean them.  Also don't let her read your post over your shoulder.  Back to the point ... you might try small foam rollers - they leave a smooth surface.  Consider a clear finish, water based poly wont yellow, over the paint if you put cute stencils (hand prints, care bears, flowers, etc.) on your work.  Never thought I would say that ... but the "first" changes things.

   Best of luck -

3. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 13, 2004 08:21am | #3

   If you have been reading these threads for any length of time, you know that everybody seems to have their own unique (read: best) set of techniques and products for any task.

   Here's mine, for a first rate paint job on furniture.

   There are other good paints, but the line I know best is Benjamin Moore.

   1) Start with a coat of their alkyd enamel underbody.

   2) Satin Impervo is their best alkyd enamel. If the underbody is tinted to the color you want, two coats will be sufficient. Adding Penetrol (per instructions) will make a big difference in allowing the paint to flow on easily.

   3) For brushing, get a new white china bristle (Purdy or Wooster are two good brands). I like the angled sash brushes -- either 2" or 2 1/2". A quality brush with Satin Impervo will leave no brush marks. Forget paint thinner, and use a "brush cleaner" to clean the brush. Any brand sold by a paint store will do the job. Follow directions on the can.

   4) Sand between each coat, which you already know. Be especially careful to clean the surface really well -- vacuum, wipe with paint thinner, final swipe with tack cloth.

   5) After the final paint coat has cured for 5-7 days, sand very lightly with 320 or used 220 (followed by vacuum, paint thinner wipe, tack cloth), coat the wear surfaces with any water-based polyurethane, using the gloss level of your choice (satin is what I prefer, for a nice glow). Use a 2' sponge brush (no brush marks).

   6) If you do use any decals, apply them after the painting is cured and sanded, but before you apply the WB poly.

   BTW, after the dresser is stripped, give it a thorough sanding with 120, and scrub it with paint thinner. this will remove any lingering wax residue from the stripper, and insure that the paint will adhere.

   Good luck................